Earthcycle

Countries Visited

2006-07-07T14:13:00.003+03:00

Asia
Turkey - Iran - Pakistan - India - Vietnam - Cambodia - Thailand - Malaysia - Singapore
KM 11400 DAYS 94

Oceania
Australia - New Zealand
KM 8218 DAYS 63

The Americas
Canada - USA - Mexico - Guatemala - El Salvador - Honduras - Nicaragua - Costa Rica - Panama - Ecuador - Peru - Bolivia - Chile - Argentina - Brazil
KM 20385 DAYS 180

Europe
Portugal - Spain - Sweden - Denmark - Germany - The Netherlands - Belgium - UK - Ireland -France - Switzerland - Liechtenstein - Austria - Italy - Greece
KM 14022 DAYS 91

TOTAL KM 54025 DAYS 428

Daily Distances Covered in Kms

2006-07-06T14:17:00.001+03:00

1-170 / 2-160 / 3-0 / 4-175 / 5-90 / 6-55 / 7-115 / 8-120 / 9-90 / 10-155 / 11-127 / 12-143 / 13-134 / 14-115 / 15-126 / 16-104 / 17-127 / 18-58 / 19-0 / 20-93 / 21-100 / 22-135 / 23-185 / 24-90 / 25-140 / 26-100 / 27-135 / 28-187 / 29-105 / 30-148 / 31-138 / 32-118 / 33-30 / 34-0 / 35-185 / 26-195 /37-178 / 38-160 / 39-158 / 40-221 / 41-107 / 42-124 / 43-169 / 44-56 / 45-110 / 46-220 / 47-179 / 48-0 / 49-0 / 50-101 / 51-140 / 52-22 / 53-0 / 54-165 / 55-110 / 56-0 / 57-0 / 58-0 / 59-35 / 60-0 / 61-0 / 62-33 / 63-164 / 64-195 / 65-237 / 66-159 / 67-92 / 68-195 / 69-166 / 70-175 / 71-157 / 72-196 / 73-143 / 74-100 / 75-115 / 76-122 / 77-168 / 78-148 / 79-60 / 80-261 / 81-36 / 82-170 / 83-176 / 84-194 / 85-169 / 86-247 / 87-170 / 88-153 / 89-173 / 90-136 / 91-214 / 92-139 / 93-80 /94-47 / 95-19 / 96-35 / 97-10 / 98-170 / 99-145 / 100-108 / 101-162 / 102-131 / 103-208 / 104-183 / 105-123 / 106-186 / 107-82 / 108-193 / 109-173 / 110-170 / 111-112 / 112-211 / 113-150 / 114-125 / 115-157 / 116-138 / 117-164 / 118-152 / 119-202 / 120-132 / 121-99 / 12-169 / 123-205 / 124-156 / 125-142 / 126-203 / 127-82 / 128-51 / 129-174 / 130-102 / 131-122 / 132-146 / 133-159 / 134-132 / 135-182 / 136-42 / 137-0 / 138-43 / 139-19 / 140-167 /141-152 / 142-102 / 143-154 / 144-152 / 145-130 / 146-112 / 147-168 / 148-170 / 149-127 / 150-154 / 151-82 / 152-0 / 153-199 / 154-142 / 155-185 / 156-115 / 157-38 / 158-55 / 159-140 / 160-8 / 161-0 / 162-15 / 163-7 / 164-163 / 165-142 / 166-217 / 167-188 / 168-195 / 169-125 / 170-51 / 171-23 / 172-0 / 173-138 / 174-18 / 175-58 / 176-43 / 177-54 / 178-26 / 179-36 / 180-31 / 181-74 / 182-15 / 183-220 / 184-205 / 185-14 / 186-65 / 187-0 / 188-0 / 189-153 / 190-127 / 191-178 / 192-195 / 193-146 / 194-207 / 195-143 / 196-185 / 197-181 / 198-150 / 199-241 / 200-252 / 201-185 / 202-82 / 203-12 / 204-0 / 205-0 / 206-0 / 207-0 / 208-0 / 209-16 / 210-177 / 211-238 / 212-147 / 213-72 / 214-177 / 215-208 / 216-212 / 217-110 / 218-153 / 219-250 / 220-155 / 221-123 / 222-0 / 223-115 / 224-211 / 225-197 / 226-153 / 227-141 / 228-199 / 229-181 / 230-165 / 231-99 / 232-155 / 233-195 / 234-158 / 235-0 / 236-0 / 237-0 / 238-0 / 239-0 / 240-85 / 241-229 / 242-179 / 243-99 / 244-196 / 245-67 / 246-0 / 247-3 / 248-0 / 249-0 / 250-0 / 251-11 / 252-67 / 253-0 / 254-30 / 255-0 / 256-0 / 257-0 / 258-0 / 259-0 / 260-0 / 261-8 / 262-181 / 263-160 / 264-95 / 265-154 / 266-166 / 267-187 / 268-131 / 269-225 / 270-0 / 271-146 / 272-210 / 273-111 / 274-123 / 275-152 / 276-151 / 277-166 / 278-0 / 279-26 / 280-197 / 281-191 / 282-112 / 283-112 / 284-0 / 285-6 / 286-174 / 287-195 / 288-200 / 289-163 / 290-97 / 291-180 / 292-173 / 293-48 / 294-143 / 295-177 / 296-191 / 297-128 / 298-80 / 299-0 / 300-171 / 301-245 / 302-168 / 303-197 / 304-144 / 305-148 / 306-232 / 307-43 / 308-99 / 309-63 / 310-153 / 311-221 / 312-102 / 313-165 / 314-147 / 315-185 / 316-164 / 317-193 / 318-141 / 319-30 / 320-67 / 321-95 / 322-142 / 323-215 / 324-188 / 325-176 / 326-151 / 327-137 / 328-192 / 329-90 / 330-174 / 331-196 / 332-190 / 333-136 / 334-203 / 335-220 / 336-0 / 337-25 / 338-62 / 339-182 / 340-235 / 341-206 / 342-105 / 343-242 / 344-146 / 345-156 / 346-249 / 347-0 / 348-164 / 349-199 / 350-150 / 351-0 / 352-0 / 353-175 / 354-139 / 355-186 / 356-164 / 357-125 / 358-60 / 359-170 / 360-204 / 361-202 / 362-217 / 363-197 / 364-195 / 365-64 / 366-0 / 367-139 / 368-279 / 369-237 / 370-191 / 371-175 / 372-173 / 373-163 / 374-169 / 375-0 / 376-238 / 377-114 / 378-80 / 379-122 / 380-215 / 381-155 / 382-55 / 383-152 / 384-222 / 385-31 / 386-220 / 387-189 / 388-205 / 389-143 / 390-152 / 391-290 / 392-87 / 393-140 / 394-0 / 395-160 / 396-0 / 397-228 / 398-150 / 399-213 / 400-206 / 401-200 / 402-180 / 403-0 / 404-183 / 405-263 / 406-166 / 407-150 / 408-168 / 409/48 / 410-236 / 411-225 / 412-172 / 413-167 / 414-232 / 415-233 / 416-89 / 417-193 / 418-130 / 419-158 / 420-127 / 421-215 / 422-202 / 423-108 / 424-70 / 425-59 / 426-187 / 427-269 / 428-102

Back to Greece

2006-06-26T14:19:00.002+03:00

June 27, 2006 DAY 419 Kalavrita, Greece KM 52585

After some serious pedaling from Rome to Bari in order to catch the ferry to Greece (the trip was provided by Blue Star Ferries) in two days - a route without great interest and at times lots of traffic - I finally arrived at the end of my route abroad. Over 52000 kms in less than 14 months through 40 countries on 4 continents! I had actually made it...

On the boat I had the chance to take a shower after about a week of straight cycling through Italy. I slept till next morning when I heard the arrival announcement. My parents had come from Thessaloniki and met me as soon as I disembarked. We spent a long time talking about my experience. I also called relatives who were so excited to hear that I was back. It was a great morning. Around noon I set out for my final leg of my trip, about 1700 kms around Greece. The temperature is quite high during the afternoon, but it's nothing compared to Pakistan.

Pit stop at a village coffee shop

In one of the villages I passed through, Prodromi, I stopped to ask for water. I met several young people at a local coffee shop and they invited me to sit with them. I spent a long time chatting, we took some photos and I went on. Further down the road I came across the only underwater tunnel in Greece. I decided to go through it. At the other end an official was waiting for me in front of the toll booths. She told me that I was not allowed to cycle through the tunnel and that they had halted the tunnel traffic for my safety. She was extremely polite and I apologized for my action, even though I had not noticed the signs prohibiting access to bicycles. I told her what I was doing, and we talked a little bit before I continued my way. I had taken a coastal road and the view was gorgeous especially during the sunset. I cycled a bit into the night and slept on a cliff high up from the water. In the morning I admired the numerous tiny island that surrounded the coastline.

Seeing the bridge for the first time

I crossed the Rio-Antirio bridge, the longest single-span bridge in the world on my way to Patra. There, I met an old friend of my father from the military. We spent a big chunk of the day chatting, eating and looking at old photographs. It was very interesting for me to see how my father looked before I was born. Believe it or not, I had never seen him that way, and I was quite surprised.

Towards the evening I left the city and headed towards the mountains. Once again, I slept outside and enjoyed the clear night sky and the voices of nature.

The benefits of sleeping outside

June 29, 2006 DAY 421 Kalamata, Greece KM 52961

I was joined by a really good friend of mine, and we toured together for 2 days. She did some nice hills without much difficulty. Impressive considering that she hasn't been training that much. Peloponisos has so much variety in terms of nature. It's wonderful - mountains, beaches, forests, picturesque villages, ancient sites. Today I reached the farthest point south on Greek mainland and from now on I will be heading north toward Thessaloniki. The temperature is almost steadily around 36-38 degrees. I have also begun to eat Greek salads and other Greek delicacies to improve my diet.

Unexpected view

July 2, 2006 DAY 424 Athens, Greece KM 53402

After two gorgeous routes over Mt. Taigetos and Parnonas where I crossed one of the most picturesque canyons I ended up in Nafplio, an equally splendid city in southern Greece. Yesterday, I celebrated my 31st birthday with family friends close to Corinth. I rode into the night and crossed the Isthmus while the sun was setting... Around midnight I stopped at a roadside grocer to buy some fruit. We ended up talking for a while as he had lived in NY in the past and he had traveled a lot to Central America. He gave me fruit and ice-cream for the road. A really nice man...

Scaling the mountain

Meeting friends outside Sparta

July 3, 2006 DAY 425 Athens, Greece KM 53420

I woke up early that morning and rode towards Athens in the dark. I stopped to get some cheese pie for breakfast and ended up chatting with the owner of the bakery for a long time. I gave him a melon that I was not going to eat and he gave me the pies for free. I entered Athens early in the morning on a Sunday in order to avoid traffic. I toured the coast of Pireaus and then headed downtown to do some sightseeing. I met Lorenda, a pianist and fellow cyclist who had written to me while I was "tripping." Next I had an interview for a magazine. At the coffee shop, where the interview was taking place, I ran into an old friend from Thessaloniki, who invited me to stay at his place for the night. Gladly, his place was nearby as a heavy downpour began. We got wet but were soon under some roof. We chatted, had some nice wine, pasta, and I crashed around 9 pm while he went out till early in the morning.

By the Parthenon

Visiting the main offices of PRAKSIS in Athens

I am now at the polyclinic at PRAKSIS having met the wonderful people who CARE and provide services to the underpriviliged. I am glad to have contributed to their efforts to create better conditions for everyone. Tomorrow, I will be heading north towards my home. I should be there in 3 days. Tonight I will be staying with Dimitris Sakkas, who had put me in contact with Florencia and her family in Buenos Aires.

July 6, 2006 DAY 428 Thessaloniki, Greece KM 54025

I participated in a cycling protest/ride around Athens claiming bike access to the subway system. There I met several avid cyclists who use their bicycle as regular transportation. I also met a couple of other cyclotourists, a rarity for Greek standards. We all went out to eat till late at night. I arrived at Dimitris house at 12 am and we stayed up talking till 2 am.

Dinner with cyclists in Athens

The next couple of days I had northerly winds, which provided some resistance. I was expected to arrive at Gravia around 10 pm to meet the mayor and local people who were interested to hear about the trip. We had a marvelous gathering and I felt intense enthusiasm while trying to convey my feelings and experiences to the others. I ended up sleeping very late once again.

Members of the Gravia community

The following morning I headed north towards Karditsa, the pioneer city in terms of cycling rights and city planning. I had interviews with the local tv station and the newspaper. I met my friend Vangelis there and stayed till 9 pm chatting with him. I wanted to reach Thessaloniki early in the morning. So, I left when it was getting dark and pedaled till 4 in the morning. 80 kms till home...

The White Tower in Thessaloniki

The following morning, after pedaling hard for a few hours I enter my home town. I had to take a photo in front of the White Tower, the town's most famous landmark. I went around the city to thank those who had initially given me certain accessories to help me start my trip. Everybody is happy to see me and hear about my trip. I arrive at my house, where I find a bunch of people waiting for me. A wonderful surprise! But the most powerful experience is when I arrive at my farmhouse late in the evening and my dogs welcome me with howls of joy after 14 months of absence...

Welcoming party at home

THE END!!!

MY GRATITUDE GOES TO ALL THOSE AROUND THE WORLD WHOM I HAD THE FORTUNE TO MEET AND WHO HAVE BECOME A PART OF MY LIFE. THIS TRIP WAS NOT TOURISM, IT WAS ABOUT HUMAN CONTACT AND COMMUNICATION. I COULD NOT HAVE ASKED FOR MORE THAN WHAT I HAVE RECEIVED. I FEEL SO COMPLETE AND WISH TO SHARE WHAT I HAVE OBTAINED WITH THOSE AROUND ME. I AM ABOUT TO START WRITING A BOOK ONCE I PUT CERTAIN THINGS IN ORDER.

PLEASE STAY IN TOUCH!

Italy

2006-06-17T14:20:00.001+03:00

June 17, 2006 DAY 409 Borgo Valsugana, Italy KM 50847

I entered Italy just yesterday. A full day of hard cycling through fantastic landscape. I even got heavy rain high up on the Dolomites. The steepness of the mountains is unbelievable and the villages located on their slopes picturesque. The weather unfortunately did not allow me to take good photos for others to see...

Cycling in the Dolomiti region

Slept in a cave next to a monument

I am now with Aspasia, the daughter of a family friend in her house in Borgo Valsugana. I arrived early in the morning, and we have been spending the day relaxing, listening to music and talking, something unusual for this trip... I have already had a slice of pizza in Italy, which will probably be the last one since everything seems expensive to me. In ten days I will be back in Greece and will do some touring there as well. I can't wait! I will start spending more money on food as I get closer.

My friend Aspasia

June 22, 2006 DAY 414 Roma, Italy KM 51720

Alessandro, Aspasia's boyfriend accompanied me on Sunday morning for several kms. I had the chance to practice my Italian a bit. Ever since I have been asking people on the streets for directions and now feel much more comfortable with the language. Of course, once in a while I accidentally use the Spanish version. The temperature has risen quite a bit. For the last couple of days the thermometer was above 35, indicating 38 during the early afternoon. After a couple of passes over the Appenine mountains I entered Toscana, a region known for its beauty and its vineyards. Pisa, Florence and the undulating countryside have made the last few days quite interesting. I passed through the Chianti region, saw Orvieto, a wonderful village built on top of a rock, before I entered the majestic capital, Rome.

Pisa

Florence

I attract a lot of attention in Italy since cyclotourism is not very common, just like in Greece. And since there are a lot of hills and the summer is already here, it seems to me that the people driving by and watching me struggling to get up the hills might think "crazy..." At least their reactions give me that impression.

I have been camping out in the countryside, loving the peace and quiet of the night. There is heavy traffic in Italy, even on the smaller, rural roads. I have become sensitive to the engine noise, which bothers me, especially when I don't have my music (can't find electricity to charge my batteries) to cover it up.

The Colosseum

The Vatican

The splendor of Rome is remarkable. If not my favorite city, it's definitely one of them. In three days I will be back in Greece after almost 14 months courtesy of Blue Star Ferries. From then on I will be touring south and then up north, a total of 1600 + kms in about 10 days before I can sleep in MY bed... I am not sure how I feel now that it's almost over.

Germany-Switzerland-Austria

2006-06-11T14:22:00.001+03:00

June 11, 2006 DAY 403 Zurich, Switzerland KM 49872

So much has happened since I crossed the border into Germany. Crossing the Rhein on a free ferry was something unusual since I had always paid, even for short rides across. Soon came the ascent into Schwarzwald (Black Forest), a region of insurmountable beauty. Interestingly, the entire Stuttgart region is above 300m high. It has a different feel to it. I always thought that Germany was quite flat, but this area isn't.

The Black Forest region

I was supposed to be staying with my former classmate and good friend, Peter. Due to the recent change in my itinerary I ended up arriving almost a week earlier. He happened to be out of the country, and we didn't see each other this time. I had been so excited and was a little bit disappointed since I had made a significant detour just to visit him. Nevertheless, I had the opportunity to enjoy the Black Forest region.

Cycling with Christian

The day was full of emotions. I met Christian, a German cyclist who helped me locate an Internet cafe and showed me around the area. I left my bicycle at a local sports store, which was open until late in the evening while I was working on a computer across the street. A major change in my personal life took place that night (which filled me with emotions) By the time I realized what time it was the store had already closed and my bicycle was locked inside! I went next door to Burger King and begged them to contact the owner of the store because all my things were on the bicycle. Alex, the BK manager, was so kind and, despite his heavy workload, devoted time on helping me solve my problem. After a few hours of waiting and a free meal I thanked everybody profusely and was on my way again.

I rode till 3 in the morning that night lost in my thoughts and enjoying the tranquility of the German landscape under an almost full moon. The following day I was pulled over by the German police because I was riding on a highway. They were extremely nice and showed me another way that had less traffic when they could have fined me.

Swiss landscape

With Eric by the lake in Zurich

Pretty soon I was in Switzerland and on my way to Zurich, where I met Eric Van der Mark, a friend that I had met in New Zealand and who had then helped me escape severely bad weather. I took a day off to spend some time with him. Last night there was a gay and lesbian day (Christopher Street day) in Zurich, so there was quite a bit of traffic. Zurich elegantly combines the renovated industrial / modern buildings with the historic center. The river and the lake provide ample outdoors activities for those who live in the city. We walked around visiting spots by the river that have been turned into public swimming areas. By accident, we walked past a Greek church, decided to go in and ended up being publicly announced and meeting members of the Greek community in Zurich.

Ms. Chen, owner of KTM Bikes

We went to a friend's house last night where I met several other Swiss people. I tried a large selection of meat and had some delicious salads as well. Tomorrow I will be heading towards Austria. The next couple of days were quite intense! 510 kms in two days! I believe it's the most I have covered in two days. There were two imminent holidays coming up, and I wanted to visit the KTM offices and factory (my bike is KTM). After some hard riding (two mountain passes) I managed to get there and I was welcomed by all of the staff. I had lunch with the owner and spent a good chunk of my day with Christian, the head of marketing. At the end of the day they gave me some parts and replaced others with newer ones. I was so glad! Everything was new again, even though I have not really had any problems with this wonderful bicycle. And believe me, it has passed some hard tests!

Friends in Austria

After the Black Forest region I had the opportunity to enjoy wonderful cycling routes and scenery in Switzerland, Austria, and Northern Italy. I quickly passed through Salzburg on my way south. In Zell Am See I made a brief stop where I met the Hoeller family, who helped me locate a man I had an appointment with. They even gave me some Spanakopita for the road - they visit Greece every year!

I then began my route towards Italy. I cycled uphill 12 % (the official - sign - maximum I have encountered was 20% in Scotland) for 30 kms reaching an altitude of approx. 2500m. On the way I met Torsten, a cyclist in training and his wife Susanne. At the end of the day I felt really tired. I think it's the first time on this trip that I have done more than 3000m of altitude gain in one day. Plus, due to the holidays I couldn't find places open and eat properly. Anyhow, downhill was wonderful!

The last major mountain pass at 2500m

The weather has been gorgeous, and I have been camping out all along, somewhere in the forests along the road or bike path. Amazing countries for cycling!

Germany/Switzerland/Austria June 9-15 2006 KM 1130 DAYS 7

France

2006-06-06T14:23:00.001+03:00

JUNE 6, 2006 DAY 398 Paris, France KM 48967

After a short delay crossing the English Channel (one of the ferries had some damage and we took the next one) I began riding in France. Green hills everywhere. I love the French countryside and the cottages, the chateaus, the people. I don't know any French, but I am trying to speak it in order to learn some. After 3 days I can understand a bit, and I am able to ask for directions and the basics.

Typical French cottage house

Flat tire at night

The first night I rode till almost four in the morning. I had a flat tire in the middle of the night. It was the first time I had to repair my bike in the dark. The road network is extensive, and I have cycled on roads with little traffic, thus having the opportunity to really enjoy the surroundings. I have shortened my itinerary, because otherwise the kms would be more than I had originally planned. I am now in Paris, and will pass Stuttgart, Zurich, Salzburg on my way south to Italy and back to Greece.

A bit of sightseeing

Artists by the river

Once again, I received a warm welcome at the Press Office of the Embassy in Paris. I left Paris the same day after a brief tour around its major neighborhoods and landmarks. I met Sebastien Grange, a fellow cyclist who happened to be training on a quiet road outside of Paris. We chatted a bit in French, and he ended up inviting me at his house for the night. My French improved rapidly that evening! The last few days in France were mostly uneventful. The landscape changed as I approached the German border. More hills appeared and then came the mountains of the Black Forest.

Enjoyable cycling

Sebastian Grange, a fellow cyclist

United Kingdom-Ireland

2006-05-24T14:24:00.001+03:00

At Stonehenge

May 24, 2006 DAY 384 Troon, Scotland KM 47104

Scotland has been quite adventurous for the most part. It's a beautiful country with wonderful people. Its landscape bears some similarity to that of New Zealand. I have so far been used to taking fewer showers than I would normally do considering that I have traveled through long stretches of desert, etc. And then I come to Scotland where I am forced to take constant showers and cold ones too!!! No wonder why it's so green. Its north is quite barren, tundra-like, because it's just too cold and covered with snow for most of the year.

Northern Scotland

My first night in Scotland I was hosted at a 24 hour service area. The following nights I have been sleeping outside using both of my sleeping bags to protect myself from low temperatures. A few days ago I was close to the northern tip of Scotland, and it snowed overnight just a couple hundred meters higher than I was. There are many scenic routes in Scotland (lakes, rivers, mountains/highlands, the shores).

Picturesque coastline

One day I met a group of university students from Edinburgh who were taking a long cycling trip in Scotland as part of one of their courses. They were trying to raise environmental awareness and encourage organic products growing by buying directly from the farmers. I just love these courses! They are so full of substance. A little further down the road I had a major mishap. My chain broke and, in turn, it broke the rear derailler as well. For those who don't understand what this means, it's basically the end of cycling. I could have shortened my chain and used one cog as an emergency, but that was virtually impossible considering the steep inclines and the weight on my bike. So, I had to push the bike for several kilometers.

Bike trouble

I found a couple, the Bridsons who were traveling with their motorhome, at a parking lot on the side of the road. I asked if they knew where the closest bike shop would be. They offered to take me and my bike in their motorhome. We had a challening and wonderful tour of the west coastline until Ullapool, a nearby town. I stayed at a hostel there until the next morning, when I would take a bus to Inverness to make the necessary bike repairs.

Save by the Bridsons

The buses were full. One of the drivers refused to take my bike even though he had ample space. Another driver, Jeff, a fellow cyclist and full of kindness person did his best to help me out. I was about to miss the bus, and my things were not loaded. He told me to get on the other bus, and he would take care of them. I got on the bus as it was leaving the station leaving my things out there. I was anxious! When I arrived at Inverness Jeff was waiting for me with all my things. How can you not appreciate that man's good will?

The following couple of days have been mostly wet, and the weather doesn't seem to be changing. It's winter at the end of May in Scotland. Last night, after getting rained upon, I found a bus stop in a town and lay down to sleep around 11pm. As I was falling asleep I heard someone asking if I was alright. It was Louie Fecou, a young man who was taking his dog, Charlie, out for a stroll. He invited to crash at his house for the night. Yet another deed that confirms Scottish hospitality. In the morning he called a nearby port to ask for ferry schedules to Ireland. I had barely an hour to cover a significant distance to the port. I gave it a try. I was rained upon and the wind was quite strong. I missed the ferry by a few minutes. I am now at the town library waiting for the next one this evening.

May 27, 2006 DAY 388 Claremorris, Ireland KM 47553

After the winter in Scotland I arrived in Ireland to find milder weather with unpleasantly strong headwinds. I have mixed feelings about my experience here because on the one hand the people (the majority at least) are very amiable, but on the other hand I am a bit disappointed with the landscape I have so far encountered. I somehow can't seem to find the wonderful coastline I have seen in photos. I guess they are well-kept secrets that can only be discovered by those who patiently seek them. At this moment, I seem to be in a hurry to get to some warm and sunny weather. Besides, the westerly winds make me think twice before venturing off to remote beaches in the west (that are unfortunately the ones famous for their beauty!) Oh well, maybe another time...

Clear skies at last!

June 2, 2006 DAY 394 Dover, England KM 48535

So much has happened since my last log entry. The weather in Ireland gradually improved and the wind subsided during the hours following my recent log entry. This gave me the opportunity to enjoy the natural beauty of the land that I had been seeking from the beginning. I have included two photos taken by professionals of Cliffs of Moher, since I believe that mine do not do justice to the wonderful coastline views that Ireland has to offer. I met Martin McKeown, a geologist who had done significant work in Greece, who gave me vital information about what to see in Ireland. To appreciate the land and increase one's chances of having good weather one needs to spend time exploring Ireland - a future trip for sure!

The following couple of nights the skies were clear and I took advantage of this unique gift to do some night riding. The tranquility and the outline of the shapes of nature unfolded as I rolled through diverse landscape (hills, coastline, villages). The feeling was just so powerfully overwhelming. Of course all this excitement resulted in sleep deprivation, but that's fine. I recharged my batteries on the ferry crossing from Ireland to Wales.

The last couple of days in Ireland enjoying the weather

I met Trevor (photo), a fellow cyclist and environment conscious person, on that ferry. We exchanged experiences and ideas during the late evening before we both fell asleep... From Swansea in Wales I rode all day passing from Stonehenge and almost reached London, 230 miles away, in one day. I visited the Press Office of the Greek Embassy. I was unexpectedly surprised by their welcoming - a spontaneous get together with food and drinks. I also had an interview that day, my first in Europe.

With Trevor on the way back to the UK

I spent the night in London with a family I have known for several years through friends in Greece (photo). Ιt was interesting to see how everybody had grown and interact with them in their familiar surroundings. I will be seeing them in Greece very soon since they are coming down on vacation.

Friends in London

Amazing reception by the Embassy's Press Office in London

In the morning I returned to the Embassy, where I had left my bike during the night. I met Malou Bonicos, a most creative illustrator and inspiring person. Her genuine stance and kindness of heart were so refreshing. After a brief visit to major London landmarks I was on my way to Dover, my last stop in the UK.

St. Paul from the Tate

I arrived late at night at Sofia and Giannis' house at the eastern edge of England. Their house has a wonderful view of the English Channel. I had not seen them since their wedding a few years back and we had a great time hanging out together. I took a day off to stay with them... Tomorrow I am taking the ferry over to France.

Old classmate hosting me at their house in Dover

Sweden-Denmark-Germany-Holland-Belgium

2006-05-09T14:25:00.001+03:00

May 9, 2006 DAY 370 Copenhagen, Denmark KM 44871

After spending a night at the airport in Lisbon I boarded the plane to Stockholm. Ilias Galanis, the head of the Embassy's Press Office in Stockholm was waiting for me at the airport. The weather was wonderfully sunny and pleasantly warm. We went to the center of the city and to the office. We stayed there until late at night. While returning home I had a chance to glimpse at Stockholm's nightlife! Pubs and clubs were asphyxiatingly full. The following day I had to repair the zipper of my windproof jacket in order to continue my trip.

With Ilias before departing from Stockholm

I have had beautiful weather in Sweden and Denmark. I managed to ride 279 kilometers in one day, a trip record. This is due to a phenomenon that I had never experienced before. I woke up one day and initially thought it was about 7 in the morning. I looked at my clock and it showed 3:50. Then it dawned on me that I am close to the Arctic circle and that the days are much longer. It's an amazing feeling and I would like to go further north to experience it. Next summer I am hoping to take a bike trip from Helsinki through the North Cape and down to Oslo.

Sunrise in the north

Additionally, one is able to fully enjoy cycling in these countries. Paths everywhere, everybody is on a bicycle!!! The mentality is so bicycle centered. I love it! The traffic in Copenhagen is remarkable. It seems that there are many more bicycles than cars, little noise, and thankfully good weather while I am here. I have been welcomed by the staff at the Embassy as usual. I will be heading toward Germany this afternoon after having lunch with Ms. Vivi Gargoula, the head of the Press Office in Copenhagen.

Beautiful Copenhagen park

Copenhagen landmark

May 14, 2006 DAY 375 Zutphen, Holland KM 45725

While passing through the center of Copenhagen on my way south towards Germany I met a cyclist, Mike Birkendal, with whom I cycled together for several kilometers. He invited me for dinner at his house in a little town outside of the city. His wife had unfortunately taken ill. He showed me the way south - insisted on giving me food for the way - and we parted. I cycled on the paved bicycle paths all the way to the southern tip of the island. The traffic during the late evening and the early morning hours was virtually nonexistent. I arrived at the port at 1 in the morning. I was pretty tired. I enjoy cycling during the night. I took the ferry to Germany and arrived there at 2:30. I found shelter outside a local school and slept till next morning.

Mike Birkendal

The following day I cycled to Hamburg. I was supposed to be hosted by a friend of a Greek friend (Petros Pehlivanoglou). I didn't have her information and I had not received any email since I had been having problems accessing my mail for technical reasons. I was about to check into a hotel - because I wanted to spend the night in Hamburg and didn't feel like sleeping outside in an urban area - when I received an email from Petros letting me know that Kea Kordlandwehr was expecting me at her apartment that night. I was quite lucky... On my way there I discovered a Greek restaurant (Zum Griechen) owned by Pashalis and Magda, a wonderful couple who offered me dinner. Their restaurant has a family ambience. I tried their home made bread and they gave me a loaf to go. I arrived at Kea's house after midnight. We had a brief talk and I met her roommate as well. I slept heavily that night since I have been deprived of sleep.

Greeks in Hamburg

The next morning she showed me the way to the Press Office of the Greek Embassy, and I paid them a visit. I left Hamburg around noon. I had to cycle 300 kms to my next destination, Groningen, Holland. I made a brief stop in Oldenburg, Germany where I met Giorgos Pehlivanoglou, the brother of Petros. We had dinner at his dorm at the University of Oldenburg and I took a nap for a couple of hours. At 3 in the morning he showed me the way out of the city and I continued my course toward Holland.

As the sun began to rise I was so tired that I almost crashed on the protective bar at the side of the road. I had to stop for a little while to recharge myself. I had to be in Groningen by noon because I had a meeting with students at the University to talk about this trip. Everything went well and I arrived on time. I had an awesome time with the students who showed great enthusiasm about my trip. Later that night we had a big dinner where I met lots of other students.

I am now at my cousin's house in Zutphen (southern Holland) playing with her little boys. I am taking a day off to replenish my sleep loss... Tomorrow I will be heading towards Brussels.

Family in Holland

I had a wonderful time with Anna and the kids, enjoyed some really tasty food, and got enough sleep. Heading south has not been easy. I am facing strong headwind, which will remain at least throughout Belgium. I stopped at a couple of Greek restaurants (Iones and Dimitri's) around Antwerpen to say hello and continued my course toward Brussels. I arrived in Mechelen around midnight. The streets were virtually empty. I reached a magnificent old square and took a night shot. I slept in front of a store till around 6 am.

Brussels

In Brussels I visited the Atomium and took a short tour of the city before I came to the Press Office, where I was welcomed and given a computer to work at. Mr. Havouzoudis devoted a significant amount of time on me. He took me out to lunch, managed to get me free transportation on board Superfast ferry to Scotland, and paid for an overnight stay in Belgium - courtesy of the Embassy of Greece.

Embassy Press Office in Brussels

I cycled to Gent that night, where I met another cyclist, Chris de Sutter, who gave me a brief tour of the city and showed me the way to a hotel. The following day I rode along a canal all the way to Brugges, a spectacular city named "Venice of the North." I finally arrived at Zeebrugge, where I boarded Superfast X.

Bruges

I was welcomed by the crew and its captain. I was given a luxurious cabin and sat at the officer's mess to eat a variety of delicacies. The hospitality I was shown on board was beyond belief. Upon arrival and after an equally scrumptious breakfast I said goodbye and rode to the city of Edinburgh.

Hosted on Superfast ferry from Belgium to Scotland

SWEDEN to BELGIUM KM 1960 DAYS 13

Spain - Portugal

2006-04-11T14:26:00.001+03:00

April 11, 2006 DAY 342 Algeciras, Spain KM 40793

I landed in Lisbon and, after a short tour of the city, took off. I am going to return to Lisbon later since I am flying from there to Stockholm. From the fall in Brazil I landed into the spring in Europe. Temperatures are comfortable - a bit chilly in the morning - but the landscape is beautiful. I love riding in the spring. Flowers all around, everything in bloom. Pines and sand, green pastures, farmers getting ready to sow. I have been spending most of the nights at fire stations. The firemen in both Portugal and Spain are extremely open and hospitable.

Hosted at fire stations

I have reached the port of Algeciras after several days. I wanted to cross over to Morocco to continue my trip in Africa. However, after communicating with the Greek Embassy I have been informed that I cannot cross Algeria. This has brought a major change of plans. I will not be visiting Africa unless I can get access to Libya - a request I have already made. I will be touring Spain on my way back to Portugal. I will improvise as I go since I need to cover another 9500 kms before I return to Greece. Oh well, it happens...

April 14, 2006 DAY 345 Mojácar, Spain KM 41240

The winds have once again begun to torment me. Thankfully, distances in Europe are short and directions change quickly. At least I won´t have to face 2000 kms of headwinds. After a wonderful evening with the firemen/women in Algeciras, where I had the opportunity to taste rabbit, I headed along the coast toward the north of Spain - Barcelona. I have been passing through beautiful coastline and touristy spots. This week is Easter and everything tends to be closed. I am having a hard time finding supermarkets that are open and am forced to buy food from gas stations (more expensive).

More firemen hospitality

April 18, 2006 DAY 349 CASTILLON, Spain KM 41785

After sleeping at several gas stations I had a wonderful day of tailwind pushing me forward. I reached Jávea and was looking for Mr. Paris, a German cyclist who lived in Jávea, Spain. He had invited me to his house. Asking around for his address I happened to run into Jesus, who invited me to stay with him. We had really interesting conversations till late. I decided to stay another day with him. We went over to several people´s houses, where I met a lot of people. Interestingly, at some point we were sitting at a table where three languages were spoken (Spanish, German and English) (see photo at Nieve´s house). Later on, Jesus showed me the house he has been renovating, a house in the country very similar to mine (trees with fruits, open space, no noise). If you are open to the world you will find a lot of wonderful things about it...

Jesus and friends

Yesterday, I met Jean-Pierre, a Belgian-Brazilian cyclist on a tour of Europe. We have been cycling for a day together. We took a short tour of Valencia together. Most cities and villages in Spain have a historic center, which is usually lovely to go through.

April 26, 2006 DAY 357 Vitoria-Gasteiz, Spain KM 42833

A lot of things have happened since my last blog update. In Barcelona I went to a bike store (Probike - www.probike.es) to buy something and met Nenad Jovanovich, from Serbia, who invited me to stay at his house. Among other things he works with audio-visual media. He has created several documentaries, one of which about Biciclown, a Spanish man on a world mission that will bring smiles to everyone (please visit his site www.biciclown.com). He also conducted an interview with me during my stay. He is going to send me a DVD when he has finished editing it. At the same time, I discovered I had an allergy to cats, or maybe his cat... For two days I was unable to breathe properly, my eyes were red, and I was sneezing like crazy. I had two relaxing days in Barcelona, a city certainly worth visiting.

Nenad in Barcelona

And then, I fell in love with Northern Spain. I took a route through the Pyrenees (N-260)!!! A must see. If you haven´t seen the Pyrenees you are missing a great part of Spain. Wonderful vistas, tough ascents, but worth every bit of sweat. I am now in the País de Vasco, and the scenery continues to impress. I believe that all of Northern Spain is similar, and will leave you breathless. Yesterday I did a bit of the world-renowned Camino de Santiago, 1100 kms through gorgeous nature and picturesque villages. Last night they let me stay for free at an Albergue de Peregrinos (pilgrims). I met several people from all over who were taking the infamous tour.

I am now at a bike store once again changing a few bike components that have been terribly worn out.

Beautiful routes in the Pyrenees

April 27, 2006 DAY 358 Bilbao, Spain KM 42928

This last couple of days have been adventurous in a peculiar way. First of all, I cannot find the right components for my bicycle. Cyclotourism in Spain is common. Yet, everybody is using a mountain bike instead of a touring bike to go around, not very convenient, but that´s how they do it. Therefore, it´s extremely difficult to get spare parts for my bike. That´s why I had to have them ordered, and now I am waiting in Bilbao (after having changed my route) until tomorrow. Of course, had I changed them earlier I wouldn´t be in this situation. But who thinks about the future when the present is so powerfully consuming? The last repairs I made were in NY, more than 20,000 kms away. It makes perfect sense that some things will eventually wear out. Oh well...

The last couple of days I have been having terrible pain in my lower back. I sincerely hope it´s not a cyst of some sort that might need medical attention. Time will show... The routes have been wonderfully scenic. I am enjoying every bit of cycling. Last night, I had to cycle 70 kms using only a few gears since most of them had been worn out. I hope that I will soon be able to do some worry-free cycling. Today, I had a chance to go around Bilbao, which is a lovely city as well. Every Spanish city has a historic part, which I love.

Northern Spain sunset

Picos de Europa

May 4 2006 DAY 365 Lisboa, Portugal KM 44181

After several days of wonderful cycling through the northern coast of Spain, beautiful Cantabria, Picos de Europa natural park, a part of Asturias, Galicia and northern Portugal I am back in Lisbon. After the repairs in Bilbao (Zubero ciclos) my bicycle feels like it's new. I also had to buy new cycling shorts because the old ones had several holes (after being worn for a year) and body parts were beginning to show...

Cycling along the Camino de Santiago

I am definitely coming back to do the Camino de Santiago on foot. Northern Spain is just amazing. I can't find words to express how I feel. The road network gives a cyclist the freedom to ride without preoccupations and enjoy nature at its fullest. Antonio Juan Moro, whom I met at a gas station where I was planning to spend the night, offered me shelter and dinner (garbanzos - chick peas) at Piedrasecha, a picturesque village near the border with Asturias. His website is www.ocioteca.com/piedrasecha if anyone is interested in organized activities in Spain. The next couple of nights I stayed at gas stations along the road and yesterday evening I was hosted by the Firemen at Vila Franca de Xira. Amazing hospitality by firemen once again!

With Antonio in Piedrasecha

The Greek Embassy in Lisbon was more helpful than I could ever hope for. At the press office I met Pavlos and Katerina, two simple, inspiring and full of enthusiasm people who most adequately represent and promote the image of Greece in Portugal. They shared a big part of their day with me conversing and having lunch together. We stayed until late at night at the office. I will be going to the airport since I have an early flight to Stockholm tomorrow. Pavlos has contacted a friend at the Stockholm press office, who will be hosting me tomorrow before my departure for Denmark. From now on I will be in touch with press offices at various European countries, which will facilitate the remainder of my trip. At the same time I have a great opportunity to meet Greek people who live abroad.

Pavlos and Katerina in Lisbon

IBERIA KM 4194 DAYS 28

Brazil - Enjoy the ride and the people!!!

2006-04-05T14:27:00.001+03:00

April 4, 2006 DAY 335 SAO PAULO, BRAZIL KM 39978

Just a stroke or two before 40,000 kms, a milestone for me and a feeling of gratification. I am almost done with a vast continent, that has offered me so much!

I have finally reached the largest city of Latin America, too big for my taste... The first couple of days in Brazil I felt a bit awkward because I would greet people on the road and only a few of them would greet me back, a big change from Argentina. Once I reached Cascavel and camped outside of a gas station, I had a wonderful encounter at a local bar/restaurant that made me feel at ease. Vilson, Wendel and Douglas bought me dinner that night. It was my first lengthy conversation in Brazil. I don´t speak Portuguese, but I understand enough to communicate. I answer in Spanish of course.

My first night in Brazil

The routes in Brazil have been quite hilly, much more than Argentina. A lot of effort, but it´s really pleasing. Green all around, jungle-like vegetation, mountain, water, huts here and there and people on the streets.

Outside of Ponta Grossa, two cyclists, Gerson and Carlos greeted me and we rode to town together. That night I was hosted by Gerson at his apartment, and I had the most amazing pizza dinner ever. They pass around with all kinds of pizzas, spaghetti, etc. and they serve you portions. You can go on all night. They even have sweet pizzas (with ice cream, chocolate, etc.) I must have eaten more than 3 entire pizzas. I had initially thought that Brazilians were a bit reserved, but I soon changed my mind.

Carlso and Gerson in Ponta Grossa

In Curitiba I met Kostas Frantsezos, the vice-president of the Greek community, and watched him and his group perform Greek folk songs. I was hosted at the offices of the Greek community that evening.

The next night I was hosted at a gas station (4 Irmaos or 4 Brothers). The guys let me shower for free, gave me free dinner and let me sleep inside.

I arrived in Sao Paulo last night. I met Mr. Papadimitropoulos, the son of the local priest, and he put me up at a hotel. We went out for dinner and had a good talk. I am amazed at the kindness that people have treated me with. How can you not trust them after all that? I keep hearing people cautioning me to be careful, blah blah... I understand. Yet again, my heart tells me to trust, at least most of the time. Thanks to the world for helping me be that positive in life!!!

Greek music in Curitiba

April 6, 2006 DAY 337 SAO PAULO, BRAZIL KM 40003

Thanks to the help of Manolis Papadimitropoulos, who took me to the airport, I was able to get to Europe. I spent over two hours begging at the Varig counter. Mr. Cardoso, a supervisor with Varig, tried his best and got me on a plane when all hope was almost extinguished. I am grateful for his patience and kindness. I had a wonderful time with the family Papadimitropoulos during my short stay in Sao Paulo. But due to the unavailability of seats on all flights for two week I had to leave from S. Paulo and didn´t visit Rio de Janeiro, two days away on the bike :-)

Papadimitropoulos family in Sao Paolo

Argentina - Pinnacle of South American Hospitality

2006-03-15T14:27:00.003+02:00

March 15, 2006 DAY 315 La Carlota, Argentina KM 36878

The past several days have been quite intense. It took me two days to cross the Cordillera de los Andes from Santiago de Chile to Mendoza, Argentina. Some nice uphill on the side of Chile, a location known as Los Caracoles, 36 curves of 180 degrees creating the shape a serpent climbing the rugged mountains.

Cerro Aconcagua in the background

I was hoping to be treated better by the Argentinian winds. As soon as I crossed the Andes the wind suddenly blew strong from the east and it has remained so up to now. Day and night blowing hard. I have been forced to ride during the night as well - when the intensity of the wind drops a bit - If it weren´t for meeting interesting people on the way - the Argentinians are very hospitable and open to tourists, and they have a spark in them that makes them stand out. I have been meeting tons of people having interesting experiences here and there. Last night I was invited to drink some wine by a truck driver.

Las Pampas de Argentina

I have been taking 3-4 hour naps between long cycling periods. This morning I was so exhausted after an all nighter that I was literally falling asleep while cycling. I was desperately looking for a place to rest, and a bus stop appeared after a while. Salvation! Today was accident day! I was sitting at the side of the road grabbing a bite when a pick up truck - old one and heavily loaded - lost one of its wheels and started skidding on the road. It stopped a few meters away from me. Further on, I passed an accident site that had apparently a fatality. Someone was stuck into the jumbled wreckage. It´s absolutely terrifying when you witness such scenes. I can´t wait till I reach Buenos Aires to take a rest from cycling and the wind. It really makes a huge difference in the way you experience your travels.

March 18, 2006 DAY 318 Buenos Aires, Argentina KM 37376

I have finally reached the capital of Argentina after long days due to headwinds. I will be hosted by a friend of a friend at the outskirts of Buenos Aires. The roads in Argentina are extremely dangerous because they are terribly narrow - they barely fit two trucks crossing each other. You can imagine what happens when they do so and I happen to be around. I have had to get off the road so many times because the drivers would not break to give way to the oncoming vehicle. I have also had to ride a lot during the night to avoid the heavy winds and the traffic - which is still quite heavy even during the night. One of those nights I stopped at a restaurant (which is an exception) to grab a bite. There I met a group of friends who invited me over to their table. We ended up talking until two in the morning. Like I have commented before people in Argentina are extremely open and hospitable. They have frequently invited me and treated me. Last night I slept at a gas station and met the cashier, a really pleasant fellow who treated me with some food. Previously I had met a motorcyclist who had served on Cyprus as part of the Argentinian force. Overall, I am meeting lots of pleasant and open-minded people. Again last night I had an encounter with a bunch of people in a van (from Canada, Argentina, and Italy). I also had interesting encounters with the police who have all been amiable towards me.

Tomorrow I will be visiting the Embassy and two Greek schools in Buenos Aires.

Greek high school

Greek elementary school

March 20, 2006 DAY 320 Buenos Aires, Argentina KM 37473

The last two days have been really full of magnificent experiences. Initially, I met Florencia Cerisoli, a friend of a friend from Greece. I spent Sunday with her and her lovely family at her house, where I was hosted that same night. I finally tasted the world-renowned Argentinian asado, prepared at the common parrilla, a variety of meat that is truly rich in taste. They later took me for a tour around Buenos Aires. This city combines modern with traditional architecture. One can marvel at some amazing buildings all around the city, which is bordered by Rio de la Plata. Puerto Madero, the old port, has been renovated and has now become a happening place.

Today I visited the embassy of Greece and two schools (a high school and a primary school) and had the chance to share my experiences with lots of students and teachers. We had a great time talking and many showed tons of enthusiasm. There I met Ioustina, one of the teachers who recently arrived from Greece, who invited me to stay at her house overnight. Later I met Tasos, yet another teacher who later showed me Buenos Aires as well. We took the tour of the city on our bikes! In the evening I went to Angie's house - one of the high school students who had invited me over after our meeting at her school. An extremely open-minded family with four girls. They were amazingly hospitable and really infatuated with Greece even though they had no Greek roots. I had a great time with them, but I forgot to take a photo with them. Later on that evening, Ioustina, Tasos, Stathis, Dimitra and Dimitra (Tasos's wife with her baby daughter Anemi), all teachers at local schools invited me out for dinner. It was interesting for me to be among Greek young people after quite a long while.

Cerisoli family

March 24, 2006 DAY 324 Chajari, Argentina KM 38005

I left Buenos Aires late in the afternoon and reached Zarate at night. I was looking around for a place to sleep when a guy on a motorcycle approached me and we started to talk. He ended up taking me to the firemen station, where they invited me to stay with them for the night. Coincidentally, while I was making a call to the US, I found out there were Greek people in this town. A couple of guys helped me locate them and I went to their home at 11 at night and stayed till 1 in the morning talking. I returned to the fire station, where I spent the night. The next morning I had an interview at the local tv station and with the newspapers.

Greeks in Zarate

I crossed two bridges over Rio Parana. The province I have entered is called Entre Rios (between rivers). I am following the route next to Rio Uruguay and have almost reached the border with Brazil. The landscape is green and there are a lot of insects being that I am near the river banks. The wind has finally become somewhat favorable, but I can´t enjoy the ride because of the extreme tension I am feeling being that the roads in Argentina are the narrowest I have ever experienced. This, combined with the heavy tractor trailer traffic, makes my experience a nightmare!!! I have never felt danger on the road before, and now I feel it constantly. I can´t wait till I enter Brazil.

Nonetheless, the people are wonderful and very hospitable. Two nights ago I stayed at a gas station and took a shower for free. Last night I decided to camp out - I was cycling until 2 am and the road suddenly became even narrower. I felt that my life would be seriously in risk and pulled over to pitch my tent on the side of the road.

March 29, 2006 DAY 329 Foz do Iguaçu, Brasil KM 38859

I have finally arrived in Brazil. From now on I will be much more relaxed while riding on the road, or at least I hope so. They have told me that the roads are wider here. A few days back I spent a night at Alvear with the family of Nestor Pereira, a motorcyclist I met on the way to Buenos Aires. Mr. Jimenez, the husband of his sister, took me around the village to take a haircut, obtain some music from one of his friends and do some groceries. Later that night I met a Brazilian - fellow traveler on a bicycle - who was also visiting. Mr. Jimenez took us all out for dinner that night! Fabulous hospitality in Argentina.

The Pereira family

I entered the last province in Argentina, Misiones, which is full of European immigrants, mostly Germans and Swiss. I had the chance to speak some German amidst all the Spanish. The landscape has significantly changed. It is lush and full of hills. Up and down for hundreds of kilometers. If you are planning on cycling it get ready to sweat profusely. I have been sleeping at gas stations and camping out as well.

Falls of Iguazu

Yesterday it rained and got me worried because I was going to visit the falls of Iguaçu. However, today was a perfect day for the visit. I cannot describe how unbelievably amazing the falls are. One definitely has to come, although be prepared to wait in line since there are numerous tourists around. I have just crossed the border, and tomorrow I will begin my final route in S. America, towards Rio de Janeiro, 1500kms from here.

KM 2883 DAYS 19

Chile - Desert and Avenging Winds

2006-02-21T14:28:00.002+02:00

February 21, 2006 Day 293 Arica, Chile KM 33581

Just like the border between Peru and Bolivia, the border between Bolivia and Chile has operating hours. So once again, I had to wait - this time in the cold - till they opened to get my passport stamped. I had to climb 8 more kms till the pass of 4699m (15416 ft), the highest altitude on this trip! I had been used to the lack of oxygen and didn´t take me too long to reach the Chilean border station.

4700m pass

I had to wait a bit there because they wanted to check my luggage - the first time after many border crossings. I had been told that it would be downhill all the way to Arica from then on. I ended up climbing close to 1000m because there were many parts that had inclines. But, from 4700 meters I descended to 550m in a single day... While up at the altiplano, I had some hale, later on some rain, and a flat tire as well. My chest muscles were somewhat in pain as I was still entirely not over the cold that had developed since Peru. I needed to get to a warmer climate as soon as possible, which I did. I spent the night at a local gift shop. The owner had allowed a group of four Japanese cyclist to stay at his house, where there was no more space for me. I spent a good chunk of the night listening to the stories of a local guy, who had more than enough beer that evening.

I started early this morning - before dawn since the time has rapidly advanced by two hours in just a few days (Peru 0, Bolivia +1, Chile +2) - I soon reached Arica and looked around for a bike shop. I had to get new cycling shoes because the ones I had been using - they were sponsored by MBikes, a shop in Thessaloniki - were hurting a lot. So, I ended up buying a bigger size to be sure it doesn´t happen again. I looked around for some Greeks, but apparently the only ones that are around go 3-4 generations back. I will relax today and start early tomorrow. 2100 kms to Santiago, mostly through desert once again...

Desert art

February 26, 2006 DAY 298 Antofagasta, Chile KM 34300

The first day was pretty tough. A lot of ups and downs and all in the desert. Huge mountains with rocks and sand surrounding me, then flatness just to be followed by another descent to sea level and an ensuing ascent to 1300m. I have started to ride a bit in the dark as well to gain some time and miss some of the dullness of the desert. The first night I slept outside a restaurant.

Atacama desert

The wind has been constant from the southwest. It`s impeding my progress, but I have learned to defy it. Prior to reaching Iquique I had forceful wind for 4 straight hours. I was wishing I was elsewhere, but I was persistent and made it. I stayed at a Catholic church (San Fransisco) that night. They let me stay in their dining hall.

I chose to follow the coastal road to Antofagasta. Still lots of sand and desert. A lot of tents on the beaches put up by travelers trying to spend a few days of vacationing by the water. A couple invited me for lunch at their table at one of the highway restaurants - every 100 or so kilometers apart. Mr. Jaime and Sophia Ordenes. Another night at a restaurant along the highway after a couple of hours riding in the dark. The Chilean desert is much drier than that of Peru and more sparsely populated. I learned that the upcoming part of my route, between Antofagasta and Copiapó, is the driest part of the planet. Let´s see how it will be for a few days.

Yesterday I met a German fellow traveler named Yanira. We spent a night by the beach next to some private port facilities. It was one of the few nights I have stayed up so late talking. We are spending this day in Antofagasta as well, and tomorrow each one will be on its way. We have had a really good time. I have enjoyed this break from my cycling routine, enjoyed her company and talking about so many things. In Antofagasta, there is a Greek community, but being Sunday I couldn´t trace any of them.

Yanira, a German backpacker

March 2, 2006 DAY 302 Copiapó, Chile KM 34884

I ended up spending yet another day with Yanira, just hanging out and enjoying ourselves. I knew that the next part of the trip would be difficult since I would be passing through the hardest part of the desert. Great distances without food or water. I had stacked up for a couple of days, but it was still going to be hard. The first night I ended up sleeping at a bus stop next to the highway in the middle of nowhere. 3 hours and then I was on the road again during the night. I had some rice at 1 in the morning at a posada I found open. I got tired after a while and found a gas station further down, where I slept till the next morning.

The winds have been relentlessly beating on me. Food and water is scarce, and I am having a hard time riding. Prices are extravagantly high, and it´s really not worth it! Too bad I won´t see the great part of Chile, which lies south of Santiago. The north is simply wind and sand. The last few days I have been riding with 3 hours of sleep intervals in between. At night the temperature is ideal for riding. The terrain in Chile is quite tough, always ups and downs. Plains are hard to find since the mountains (sandy) reach the coastline. Yesterday night I took a short nap at a bus stop once again, and the police stopped by to warn me it might not be safe. After several hours of night riding I finally stopped at a parking spot on the side of the highway, where I slept for another 3 hours. I am going to crash so badly tonight since I am staying at a hotel room!!!

March 4, 2006 DAY 304 La Serena, Chile KM 35225

One day of favorable wind!!! Wow... And when I was almost convinced that the desert was over I saw... DESERT! Nonetheless, last night I cycled in the dark for several hours till I reached a crest where there were two observatories. I decided to spend the night in the desert under the dense starlit sky. I was exhausted so I couldn´t really enjoy looking at the stars for too long.

Sleeping under clear skies

And here comes the culmination... I had called the Greek Embassy in Santiago a couple of days ago asking if there would be anybody to host me at various places. So, when I arrived in La Serena I got this email with contacts in various cities that I am going to pass through. I was greeted by the Greek community of Coquimbo, a group of lovely people. Mr. Arquímedes Satás was the first person to meet me, and he took me to his house where we had lunch with his wife. Rossana Karapas and her husband Waldo came later to pick me up and take me to this wonderful site with luxurious cabins where I would spend the night relaxing. Annette and her friend Alejandra spent time with me taking me around, and escorted me to an interview with the local newspaper. A wonderful dinner at the beachfront restaurant Syrtaki ensued, where I was greeted by numerous members of the Greek community and its president, Mr. Miguel Politis. I could have never imagined such a welcoming attitude. And the warmth and openness of this small community is just phenomenal! Thanks so much for making me feel at home again...

The Greek community of Coquimbo

March 8, 2006 DAY 308 Viña del Mal/Valparaíso KM 35747

Heavy headwinds were characteristic of the first day toward Valparaíso. Some interesting coincidences happen that I wonder if I am just lucky or if destiny is at play. I was debating whether to stop for some snack at a bus stop or not. I really wanted to advance, but I figured that a short break from the wind wouldn´t hurt. So, while I was about to grab a bite, this bus stops to let some passengers off and a short while later the driver approaches me with a box full of cookies. Tons of cookies that would last me a while. He offered it to me! I travelled through the night as well with few hours of sleep in between. I reached Viña del Mar in two days. Mr. Hector Orfanos had been expecting me and was about to be an excellent host. He took me to his house, and we had lunch with his wife, Gloria. Later we took a tour of the city and walked around a bit. The following morning I had a television interview and later on one with the local newspaper. Before my departure I met Ms. Charicleia Yannatou and her cousin Mr. Yannatos, the owner of restaurant La Rotonda. A tour of the hills of the town and a wonderful Greek lunch.

Mr. Orfanos and Yannatos family

March 9, 2006 DAY 309 Santiago, Chile

I arrived at Santiago late last night and decided to sleep outside of the city - once again a bus stop. At 2 in the morning a police car stops, and they tell me that they prefer that I move to a safer place, something that I have heard so many times before. So, they escorted me to an old police station, where there was a guard. So, I took another short nap and continued towards the city at 4 am. I arrived at the Greek Embassy early in the morning. They attended to me wonderfully, giving me everything I asked for.

KM 2582 DAYS 19

Bolivia - Living High Above

2006-02-17T14:29:00.002+02:00

February 17, 2006 Day 289 La Paz, Bolivia KM 33096

This morning I woke up early and rode to the border control post. I was told that I had to wait an hour until opening time - few borders close at night!!! Anyhow, this gave me an opportunity to chat with some locals for an hour covering politics, cultural issues and many other topics. As soon as immigration opened I crossed the border in no time.

Lago Titicaca

I have to admit that the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca is much more scenic than the Peruvian one. The initial part of the route contained some serious hikes close to 4300 m. I was able to enjoy gorgeous views of the lake and the surrounding snow-peaked mountains. I also had to take a little boat across the lake to continue my way towards the Bolivian Altiplano, which lies at 4000m. Bolivia offers fascinating views of mountains. Every time I stop I meet someone and get to talk. During lunch someone told me I had a Mexican accent... How weird!

Mountain range with Titicaca in the foreground

La Paz from above

I was dumbfounded when I saw La Paz. It´s the most magnificent city I have ever seen. Let me be clear. What impressed me was the view from 4100m. The city is situated in a gorge-like area. The Altiplano briefly ends and gives the impression of a hole in the earth 600 m below. I can´t explain it, but I have never been so impressed by a city. Of course, the traffic downtown tones the admiration down, but it´s still a nice city. Besides, it´s the highest capital in the world. I got a room at a nice hotel after a long time. I went food shopping and had a hot dog! I met a gentleman there and he bought me a soft drink and chatted with me. I guess being able to speak Spanish helps!

A few notes on cousine. First of all, mate de coca is a hot drink that the Andeans like to have. It´s like tea, but prepared with coca leaves. I have been drinking it, but to be honest, I had been made to believe that it would have a profound effect on the body. It´s just like any other tea, still savory though.

Yesterday I had my first fish from Lago Titicaca. I have really missed eating fish and several other Greek dishes. Nevertheless, the food down here is quite tasty along with the aji (spicy sauce) that I love. Rice is consumed daily and accompanies every dish. One can tell how cheap or expensive a country is by just ordering lunch. Central America was quite pricy. Ecuador was a bit cheaper, Peru even more so. Bolivia is the cheapest it gets. What´s really interesting is that in Latin America you can have a menu for a meal. It comes with soup, the main course, and a drink. And all that for less than a dollar. I can finally get away from eating bread all day long.

Twin volcanoes

February 19, 2006 Day 291 Tambo Quemado, Bolivia KM 33373 Alt. 3400m

I have finally reached the village at the border with Chile. Two tough days of cycling... Leaving La Paz was not easy. Instead of taking the highway out of the city that climbs over a long distance the 500m of altitude difference with El Alto (from 3600 to 4100m), I chose to take a shortcut. The incline was something I could not have fathomed. And more so, it was paved with stones. I have never exerted myself so much in a short period of time (58 minutes of uphill). People were applauding, cheering. I don´t think they had seen many cyclists with 50 kilos on their bike taking a chance at that climb...

Nevado Sajama

The rest of the way was much easier. I rested at a gas station, and the person in charge there treated me to a couple of egg sandwiches and some coffee (one of the few times I have drunk coffee). I needed it though because I have been having symptoms of a cold (runny nose, some bleeding because of the irritation, some coughing).

The following day I had a long way until the border with some serious uphill as well. I passed several gorgeous mountains as the Bolivian Altiplano gave way to the Cordilleras at the border with Chile. Tambo Quemado, the village at the border was at 4400m, so I didn´t take a risk at getting sicker and stayed at a room inside for 2 and a half dollars (mind you it´s far from luxurious, but it protects you from the rain, not so much from the cold).

BOLIVIA 448 KMS 3 DAYS

Peru - From the endless desert to the endless altitude

2006-01-28T14:29:00.003+02:00

January 28, 2006 - Sullana, Peru KM 30661

Before crossing the border, about 200 kms north, I encountered a German cyclist who had also done some extensive traveling. He invited me to his home in Spain, when I get to Spain.

As soon as I reached the border the landscape changed completely. The lush vegetation began to dwindle and was soon replaced by the desert. The temperature much higher and the sun burning. Combined with the strong winds that are occasionally headwinds, my life has once again become harder. In addition to that, I have had three flat tires in just two days. Amazing, considering that the roads are not that bad.

At the border in Peru I had an experience that made me feel like an ass, but only temporarily. I was changing money and this guy was blabbering. I have been accustomed to trust people throughout this trip, so I didn´t really pay attention to the calculator. I later figured out that he had given me 3 dollars worth of Nuevo Soles less. Oh well, what goes around comes around.

Of course, these are only the exceptions. I have had positive personal contact with the rest of the people so far. Last night I slept at a police station, and they were really friendly and hospitable. They even took a fan from one of the officers and gave it to me so that I could sleep comfortably. Damn, there are some nasty mosquitos around.

Hosted by the police

The Northern Pacific Coast of Peru is just desert. Cycling through it has been quite tough since I have to calculate where I am going to spend the night, where there will be provisions. Today I had to ride 225 km in the scorching sun and climb several hills, nothing major though... I feel exhausted, also because last night I didn´t sleep too well due to the insects. The landscape reminds me a lot of Iran and Pakistan.

Pacific coast of Peru

January 31, 2006 Day 272 Chiclayo, Peru KM 30903

I just crossed the Desierto de Sechura. For several hundred kilometers the landscape was pure desert with sand dunes and some scattered trees here and there. Yesterday I met a cyclist from Wales who had started in Ushuaia and was riding north.

Peruvian desert

My lights no longer work, and I have no clue how to fix them. I believe that either the dynamo is dead or the headlight has some sort of problem. It´s a bit hard to repair them out here because of the lack of know-how. I did some riding last evening, about an hour into the night. The traffic in the desert is not heavy, so I didn´t feel any danger by not having lights on. At some point I passed a patrol car and decided to ask them whether they had an idea of a place, where I could spend the night. Early that morning a fatal accident had occured between a truck and an ambulance. Two guys were going to guard the truck overnight. So, it was recommended to me that I sleep with those guys in the back of the truck. So, I did. They were really nice young folks, and so were the policemen. They took us to a nearby restaurant to have dinner in the police car.

February 1, 2006 Day 273 Trujillo, Peru KM 31128

Yesterday I covered a big distance and rode until 7 in the evening. After Chiclayo there was a stretch of desert that reminded me of views from the moon. Of course, I was the only cyclist around and there was little traffic in general. I felt really peaceful out there. I entered Pacasmayo, where I was going to ask at the local police station if I could spend the night there. A Dutch couple, who have been cycling around the world for 4 and a half years now approached me. We took a little walk around the town, talked about the trip. They were really helpful and gave me addresses of people who host cyclists. I spent the night at the local police station. They gave me a room all to myself. They also gave me an escort to take me out to dinner.

Today I am staying with Mr. Lucho Ramirez d´Angelo at his home in Trujillo. It´s a wonderful way for cyclists to meet families and feel closer to the natives of the countries they pass through. He has books with photos of all the people who have passed through. They must be close to a thousand. He showed me a photo of a Greek guy who was touring Central and South America way back.

February 2, 2006 Day 274 Chimbote, Peru KM 31251

Not much to report except that the desert is endless and the wind is forcefully holding me back. I am fighting it though!!! Life is interesting. I will comment more on my feelings when I gather my thoughts at the end of this trip...

February 4, 2006 Day 276 Huacho, Peru KM 31554

Another night at the local police station. Last night I spent at an office next to a soccer stadium that was being remodeled. I also gave an interview to a local reporter that I accidentally met while talking to a shop owner. A lot of interesting coincidences take place in my life.

More hosting at police stations

Some geography lessons that are helpful:

Peru is divided into three zones (the coastal region, the mountains, and the rainforest - that is from west to east). The coastal region, from Ecuador to Chile, stretches out for more than 2000 kms. It´s pure desert, and so is a big chunk of Chile. This means that I will be passing through sandy landscape for more than 4000 kms, more than a month...

This is more of an advice than a lesson. Before a trip, especially if you are going to be exposed to weather conditions, find out about them. What will the weather be like, what are the prevailing wind patterns (the latter one is of utmost importance to cyclists). It turns out that the prevailing winds in my route are from the west-southwest, which translates to constant headwinds, and forceful ones. Oh well, there is no way I could have taken everything into account considering the length of this trip. I should be grateful that I got the seasons right :-)

What´s really cool to see is the power of water. Here you are crossing hundreds of kms of desert. Whenever I come near to a township the landscape suddenly becomes green. Random patches of green in the middle of the desert. The striking part is seeing the beginning of it all: grooves in the dry sand that have been sewn which with the help of the water will grow crops! Let´s all be mindful of water consumption because we don´t realize how important it is until we no longer have it. In Peru, the water network ceases to operate after a certain hour till the next morning. I have bathed with buckets and little canisters because there is no running water.

February 7, 2006 Day 279 Lima, Peru KM 31746

An easy ride to Lima, Peru. I ran into one of the policeman I had met the previous night at the local Comisaria at Huacho twice in the city of Lima. He was visiting his girlfriend for the day. While searching for the Greek Embassy I met Gustavo Lopez, a fellow cyclist, and he invited to stay with him and his mother. He showed me around Plaza Mayor and downtown Lima and also helped me locate a bike shop to do some necessary repairs.

Gustavo at his home

This morning I visited the Greek Embassy, and the embassador arranged two television interviews for me. There I met Mr. Giorgos Orfanos, who invited me to stay at his house prior to my departure tomorrow morning. The interviews were pretty interesting: the first was filmed at the playas of Lima, and the second in a park, where there were lots of kids and parents around. This evening I saw for the first time myself on television. The embassador even gave me his car and chauffeur to escort me to the television stations - imagine a guy on a huge bicycle following a luxurious Mercedes! Tomorrow I set out for southern Peru and the most difficult part of the trip since I will be at high altitude for over a week. I will not be visiting Machu Picchu because it's the rainy season and I won't risk paying the heavy entrance fee and not seeing much...

Orfanos family in Lima

February 13, 2006 Day 285 Cusco, Peru KM 32364

A lot has happened since I left Lima. I quickly raced south to Nazca. The police at Chincha offered me a room at a local hotel for free. How can one express one´s gratitude to that? I was interviewed by the local newspaper and thanked them profusely.

The desert was about to end, at least for a while. I passed the world reknowned lines of Nazca and took a photo of the two figures that can be seen from the tower next to the highway. To see the rest, one needs to charter a plane to fly above the long stretch of rocky plains.

Nazca lines

From Nasca to Puquio I traveled 156 kilometers in seriously adverse conditions. The road climbed up to 4000 meters high. The first couple of days I had heavy rainfalls and clouds that prevented me from enjoying the wonderful views of the rugged altitude. The low temperatures at high altitude combined with the wind and rain create an ambience that is far from comfortable. Toward the end of the second day I was fully drenched and frozen. I entered the village of Puquio that was full of mud and had to dismount my bike and push it through the mud. My brake pads had been completely worn in a matter of several hours because they were drenched as well. The last 10 km before the village was a steep downhill. The brakes were barely functioning, and for the first time I felt danger!

Plains at 4000m, a local hut and coffee store

Considering that most hotels do not have hot water and heating and fearing catching a cold and delaying my progress I assessed my situation and decided not to risk further exposure to such adverse conditions. The following day I took my bike and walked through the mud to the town´s outskirts. I was determined to catch a ride from a tractor trailer to Cusco, 500 km further into the Andes. There I met René and Ricardo, who were willing to take me in their truck. The ride took a day and a half through the wonderful, absolutely stunning Andes!!! The weather has not been that bad after all (scattered heavy downpours), and I have been able to enjoy the views from the truck. Steep slopes, lush and green, curvy roads, snowy peeks, endless meadows at 4300 m high! I could have been riding it, but then again, I was able to savor the route more by being relaxed and not trying to advance on my bike. I kind of felt like a quitter because I saved myself from some tough riding. Then again, I would have missed this opportunity to hang out with two Peruvians. I spent the night in the back of the truck, on top of 27 tons of pasta (the cargo).

A day trucking

Cuzco is an interesting place, full of history, close to Machu Picchu and other Inca ruins. It´s full of tourists, the first touristy place in Peru that I pass through. Tomorrow I will try to visit a local archaeological site before moving on to the south towards Bolivia. I am having a few problems with my bike, aside from the brake pads - which I have replaced - I am hoping to find a good bike shop to buy some spares in La Paz, Bolivia.

February 16, 2006 Day 288 Yunguyo, Peru KM 32933

The day I left Cuzco, I took a detour to visit Pisac, an interesting archaelogical site, 35 km north of the city. After having climbed several hundred meters I saw the ruins from a distance. Further on, I reached a control point where they asked me to pay an entrance fee and leave the bicycle there. I refused to do that and turned back and left. The site featured dwellings built at the side of a mountain, 3600 m above sea level. I spent the first night at a restaurant, where I met a young chef, talented at both cooking and drawing. He showed me some of his works, and I was really impressed!

Cuzco from above

The following day I climbed a pass of 4338m. After that the landscape changed. Endless Pampas, where livestock feed. In the morning I stopped at a local bakery to buy bread for the trip and had a chat with two kids. At a village further down the road I stopped to rest and bought some cookies. I had an interesting chat with some local ladies and their kids. We had some laughs too! The road soon became horrible, one of the worst I have traveled so far. I stopped at a village and asked where I could spend the night. I was hosted at the local church that had an annex with beds and a bathroom. The person in charge of upkeeping the church invited me to his house for dinner. I met his daughter, Tania, who showed me her drawings and gave me a piece of paper with two of them.

Even though I have been acclimated to the high altitude (I have been riding for days close and above 4000m) a slight incline is enough to get you panting. However, I am still able to cover long distances, and I am really glad my body is able to maintain itself that well. I have had a slight tonsil irritation and some blood in my nose. I attribute it to the exposure to the severe weather conditions several days ago. I am gradually recuperating.

Young kids selling goods

The last day in Peru I covered 200 kms on a road that I never wish to travel again. I have never felt so exhausted. Lake Titicaca, the highest lake in the world at 3800m was the highlight of the day. I met several cyclists and had brief conversations with them.

PERU 2560 KMS 20 1/2 DAYS

On Board Agia Marina

2006-01-20T14:44:00.001+02:00

January 14 - 20 2006

Once I got on board the vessel the crew greeted me with warmth and enthusiasm. I was given the first officer´s cabin, who was on vacation in Greece. Air-conditioned, spatious, a total luxury when I was thinking I was going to be sleeping on the floor!!!

The captain, Mr. Christos Christodoulakos, was hospitable beyond belief. After we were introduced he made sure my stay on board would be as comfortable as possible. I spent a lot of time on the bridge asking tons of questions about how everything works, how the system works, and he was more than glad to answer all my concerns. At times, he even went out of his way to call me and show me a lot of marvelous things that take place in the ocean, things that I would otherwise not have noticed. Of course, our conversations were not limited to issues relating to our trip. A great thanks to him!!! Unfortunately, I could not get a photo with him.

The crew: Manolo from Costa Rica, Gustavo from Costa Rica, Jorge from El Salvador, Hector from Panama, Luis from Panama, Krisndat from Guyana, Charles from Guyana, and Sorin from Romania. I was of course the only passenger on board.

I got acquainted with all of them pretty quickly and got along with everyone. We had a great time and really good conversations. I was really interested in learning a lot about a seaman´s life, their needs, concerns, aspirations, their worldview. I spent a lot of time in the kitchen establishing close ties to the ship´s cook, Manolo, who was glad to show me a lot of culinary secrets. Everyone took care of me. These six days in the sea were as enriching as many days on land will never be. It has been a novelty for me. I really hope to cross their paths again in the future. Thank you all for an unforgetable time.

By the way, I never got seasick, although we had our share of rocking... I also had a lot of free time to do a lot of reading, A LOT of reading! History books, psychology books, traveling endeavors... I also got to introspect as well!

Ecuador - The Andes and Plenty of Bananas

2006-01-20T14:30:00.001+02:00

January 20, 2006 - Guayaquil

We arrived last night at the port in Guayaquil. Everybody got to work quickly and began to unload the cargo from the vessel.

The crew of Aghia Marina, the cargo vessel that hosted me on the way from Panama to Ecuador

In the morning I had to wait till past midday to get my passport stamped, which has delayed my departure. In the meantime, I have contacted an old friend from Georgetown, Andres Correa, who is originally from Guayaquil. He now lives in New Jersey with his family. He has given me his parents´ phone number, and I will call them later. I am hoping to be on the road tomorrow morning. After so many days of inactivity I am afraid of how my body will react.

Ecuador and Peru are currently in the rainy season. This means I will be dealing with rain and possibly cold weather at high altitudes (Andes). Interestingly, everybody around here looks at me like I am from another planet. I guess they don´t get too many cyclists around here.

So, I am going around looking for a cheap place to take a haircut since all I need is clippers that will cut my hair as short as possible until the next time. I got to ask at a local cantina, and they pointed me out to a training beautician´s academy, where I got the haircut for free... I am just beginning to realize how attractive Latinas are! Thankfully, I don´t need to worry much about it since I am already covered, but I can still marvel what´s around me :-)

January 21, 2006 - Quevedo

After getting in touch with an old Georgetown buddy, Andres Correa, I met his family in Guayaquil, and they showed me around town. Las Peñas, the old part of the city is indeed beautiful. I strolled around the broadwalk or malecón as they say it in Spanish on the river Guayas.

Correa family in Guayaquil

Today was the first serious cycling day after 15 long days... Thankfully, the terrain was fine, and I was able to cover the desired distance till Quevedo. On the way I met tons of people, who were curious about me. I guess they don´t have too many experiences with cyclotourists around here. The scenery has been primarily banana plantations. The system is quite organized around it, and they have codified each establishment, for instance Dole Code 345. They have signs that tell you how far each place is. Now I know where we get the bananas from!!!

Banana trees

When I finally reached my destination some people waved at me and started asking questions. Soon enough, there were 30-40 people gathering around me to hear what I was saying. We were in the middle of the city and had created a traffic jam. A police officer came to see what was going on, and the people started telling him that I was coming from Greece, and he got excited. Man, I could have never imagined being the cause of a traffic jam. Fortunately, an average hotel here is under 10 dollars, so I can stay more frequently than I am used to. Tomorrow will be the first day of many that will follow climbing the Andes mountains. I am still not in a great shape, but I hope that in a few days I will be back to normal...

January 23, 2006 - Quito Altitude 2780m

For the past couple of days I have been riding uphill. Guayaquil is at sea level. To reach Quito I had to climb up to 3040m above sea level. Tough deal, especially when you combine the incline with rain. Unfortunately, Ecuador is in the rainy season (they call it winter), and it's been raining almost every day. I was not able to visit the historic downtown in Quito, because for the past week or so there have been intense manifestations by various people (students, drivers, etc.), some of which have been violent. The bus drivers had blocked parts of the main highway, and I had to walk my bike through the blockades. Of course, there was no way not to attract attention... In Quito, I was hosted by Ms. Alexandra Santos and her two daughters. I had met her sister in Houston, Texas.

Santos family in Quito

January 24, 2006 - Mocha, Ecuador Altitude 3200m

The road towards the south passes several volcanoes. It's really a pity that I can't enjoy it because of the clouds and the rain. I was able to have a glimpse at Cotopaxi, the world's largest active volcano.

The road rose to 3415m before a steep decline to almost 2400m. I have been going up and down, and it's not easy. Thankfully, the roads are very good in Ecuador!!! As it was getting dark I approached a village and asked a few people for a dry place where I could spend the night. They told me to go to the center of the town. I stopped at a house to ask once again, and the family invited me to stay in their home. They own this Internet Cafe, where I am writing from. They were excellent hosts, and we had a great time looking at pictures from my trip and video presentations of their home town. In the morning they served me eggs of Codornis, tiny eggs (they say they don't have cholesterol). I had a great time. The kindness of people still surprises me although I am used to it by now.

Hosted high up in the Andes

ECUADOR 1011 KMS 7 1/2 DAYS

CentroAmerica - Getting Warmer

2006-01-14T14:43:00.001+02:00

December 17 2005 - January 14 2006

December 18, 2005 - Mazatenango, Guatemala

RAPIDAMENTE!!!

A really quick trip through the tiny countries in Central America (2-3 days in each). My passport is full of stamps! Ever since I entered Mexico I have been learning Spanish, and now I am having a really good time with the people I meet since I can understand most of what they are saying.

Guatemala has been quite lush and full of beautiful volcanic cones. I have been sleeping as usual at gas stations, at police stations, at the border, everywhere. I have been meeting different kinds of people. I guess one might even think I have been taking some risks, but I feel safe and I receive really good treatment from everybody. It´s really interesting. Most people warn me to be careful at night, to beware of thieves, etc. but most people I meet are just nice. They offer me things, they love to talk to me and learn about my trip. I don´t even worry about leaving my bike around, even without locking it. Of course, it´s normal to have one bad experience among so many good ones, something that hasn´t yet happened to me.

Volcano in Guatemala

Hernandez family

December 19, 2005 - Zacatecoluca, El Salvador

A couple of nights ago, I was sleeping at a gas station, close to the restrooms, and two gorgeous girls approached me. They said they were models (I think they may have been stripper, but who cares). They asked a lot of questions about what I was doing and gave me a nice kiss before they left. Even though I was really dirty and embarassed it felt quite nice :-)

The following night I got a free dinner at a restaurant and helped them out during closing time. There, I met a security guard, who invited me to stay at the security post at a nearby tourist center (pools, etc.). I did and that night I met a whole squad of policemen. They were all really nice, and we had a great time till late.

Just yesterday, I arrived at the border with Honduras just before dusk. Before going to bed on a bench across from the immigration office I went to have some dinner and buy some water. While I was eating the guys at the table next to me were looking at me. I ended up being invited over to their table and having a great time talking with them. They were construction workers fixing the highways. They even bought me a drink. Those guys can really drink... One vodka after the other. At the end they were unable to walk back home!!! I just love all these encounters with random people everywhere. It´s a challenge to get on the same level with everyone, but at the same time I realize it´s so easy.

Pacific coast in El Salvador

Choluteca, Honduras

December 23, 2005 - Nandaime, Nicaragua

Honduras and Nicaragua have been a bit tough with the hills that I had to go up and down. Nicaragua presented a much more lush environment with lots of green. Beautiful route through the highlands. I stayed at two gas stations the last couple of nights, but didn´t get much sleep since people use them as pubs and make noise till late. I met several people. One of them bought me dinner one night. Today I woke up with a headache, which has been persevering throughout the day. I still did 100 miles, crossed into Costa Rica, ran into two Americans cruising on their motorcycles for the second time (first time in Mexico), and barely made it to town. It´s Xmas Eve and people are out on the streets. However, I feel quite sickly and weak, and I will get some rest at a hotel. Hopefully, tomorrow will be a better day.

Lago Nicaragua

Merry Xmas to everyone!

December 25, 2005 - Liberia, Costa Rica

Xmas in Bed!

After spending a couple days in bed I felt better, the symptoms subsided, but I still felt quite weak. However, I couldn´t spend more time and money at the hotel I was staying. So, I decided to try calling the consulate of Greece in San Jose to ask if anyone would be willing to host me for a couple of days there during my recovery. The response was positive, and so I took the first bus from Liberia to San Jose. I am actually really glad I did because a big part of the highway was in a terrible condition.

Costa Rica is a country with immense beauty. It is definitely more developed than the rest of the countries in Central America. Paradoxically, its road network is in a really bad shape. It has a lot of tourism and foreign cash inflow, yet it is not as organized as one would expect. Interestingly, there are no addresses in these countries, just descriptions of locations such as 100 meters east of Pizza Hut in the industrial zone... It took us a while to locate UPS, where I was supposed to pick up a bicycle component my parents had sent me from Greece.

Mr. Giannis and his wife Stella (who is from Costa Rica) are hosting me at their home in San Jose. Today they took me around to run some errands, and I had the opportunity to visit a clinic for a physical just to make sure that my health is in order before I continue. Everything looks fine. Poor nutrition and rapid changes in the environment are the causes of sudden spells of illness such as the one I experienced a couple of days ago. I am certain this will occur again before my trip end. It´s just normal, yet never pleasant.

Family Adis

Anyhow, let´s all have a fulfilling new year... I am certain I will. This one has been wonderful. I am now more able to appreciate everything that happens to me, good and bad.

An excursion to a wonderful nearby village and a bbq with people that I had a hard time understanding (these accents are quite tough!) followed by yet another relaxing day in San Jose acquainting myself with the casa griega (Greek house) has been all the activity I have been engaged in. This has given me the opportunity to read a lot of Spanish and recuperate from the sudden spell of sickness that impeded my progress. Nonetheless, I have really enjoyed this break, and tomorrow I am starting fresh once again!

December 30, 2005 - Rio Claro, Costa Rica

Unfortunately, the first day on the road was not a great experience. I woke up fine, but down the road I had intense migraines, similar to the ones I had a few days ago. I guess I hadn´t fully recovered or rested. Anyhow, I only did 85 kms till I couldn´t get any further. The road climbed more than 2000 meters up from San Jose - which is at 1100 meters above sea level. I ended up stopping and camping on the side of the road at 3200 meters, just below the highest point that the road reaches. I got many hours of resting and the following day everything looked better.

January 2, 2006 - Santiago, Panama

Costa Rica is indeed beautiful (lush). I really love the mountains - cordilleras - that traverse the entire country. Panama is also hilly even though the altitude is much lower. The first night in Panama I slept at a police check post on the highway. Tonight I am receiving luxurious treatment by a Mexican family living in Panama that I met at a restaurant I had stopped to eat at. Really nice people... I will be in Panama City in two days.

January 4, 2006 Panama City, Panama

I have arrived in Panama city, the final destination in Central America. I have visited the consulate of Greece, met the local priest and members of the Greek community. I will be staying with the family of Mr. Dimitris Tagaropoulos, whom I met in Houston, Texas. It seems that everybody is advising me not to visit Colombia. So, my only option is to fly to Quito, Ecuador and start my trip in South America there. I will know more details during the next couple of days.

The airfare seems quite expensive to me, so I am looking into other alternatives, cheaper and more interesting. The Greek community has offered to purchase the ticket for me, but I can´t accept that. They have been really kind and hospitable with me. I have posted notes at local yacht club just in case someone might be interested in taking me along on their sailing boat. I am also hoping that a freighter captain might make an exception (there are strict security regulations) and take me along.

Other than that, I am reading a lot, improving my Spanish and just hanging out, meeting people, Greek and locals. This coming week I have to make up my mind because I can´t stay here forever...

Panama City

January 10, 2006 - Panama City, Panama

Solution found!!!

Great news... I have finally found a freighter boat that will take me from Panama to Guayaquil, Ecuador. Marina Navigation Shipping Co. Ltd, the owner of the ship represented by Capt. Nick Melis, who lives in New York, has agreed to let me travel on his boat, an exception that few people are willing to make. Mr. Dimitris Katsoudas from Crossroads Shipping Agency played a vital role into this positive change. In general, I have met several Greek people in Panama, Mr. Vasilis and Fotis Papadikis, Father Fotis - the local priest - and his family, who have all been amazingly hospitable - many thanks to them. I also owe a big thanks to Dimitris Tagaropoulos and his family for letting me stay at their place for over a week now. Soon, I will be able to return to my daily routine and continue my trip through South America.

January 11, 2006 - Panama City

Today I did a little tour of the city of Panama, through the area with the condominium highrises, the Panama viejo (old town), a beautiful part of the city that resembles Europe, and Cerro Ancón, a hill on the outskirts of the city with glorious views of Panama and the canal.

January 12, 2006 - Panama City

Today I cooked for Dimitri, the guy who has been hosting me at his house all this time. I made Gazpacho(a cold soup), a nice ensalada with pretty much everything, and a rice dish with meat and vegetables. Tomorrow night I will be staying at the Balboa yacht club waiting for my boat to arrive early in the morning. The trip to Ecuador should last 5-6 days. It´s going to be an interesting experience!

January 13, 2006 - Panama City

After a wonderful dinner with Father Fotis and his wife I returned home and got ready to leave. It was about 1:30 in the morning when I reached Balboa Yacht Club. There were a few guards around and some people partying. I tried to get some sleep that night, but only managed to rest for a couple of hours. The next morning, I and a engineer from the States, who was to do an inspection of the vessel were transported from the marina out to the anchorage in a speed boat. I was very excited about this!

Mexico - Felt Reserved for Nothing

2005-12-17T14:42:00.002+02:00

December 3 - 17 2005

December 3, 2005 - Mexico Border with USA

The night prior to my entry in Mexico I had stayed at a hotel in Brownsville, even though a Greek friend of mine had arranged for me to stay with a family. I felt extremely dirty to even attempt to go to their home. So, I called and thanked them and then went to a hotel.

There had been a strong wind all day long. In the morning I got ready to go and realized that the wind intensity had increased. Nonetheless, it was time to go into Mexico. The process at the US border was quite simple. I had heard so many people cautioning me about Mexico that I had prepared myself for the worst. I was really surprised to find that everyone on the side of Mexico was extremely polite and helpful. I completed the immigration process very quickly and was on my way out of Matamoros towards the south.

Two nightmarish days

The headwind during the next couple of days made me wish I was elsewhere. I believe it was the worst wind I got in my entire trip so far. The bicycle wouldn´t move at all. The first few hundreds of kilometers were through dusty fields. The wind swept the top part of the soil and created sandstorms at various parts of the highway. Not only did I have a rough time riding against a really powerful wind, but I had to deal with sand all over my body and into my eyes. By the time I found an empty little building on the side of the road - where I would spend the night - my skin had turned darker and was full of dirt.

Sheltered from the sandstorm

December 5, 2005 - Manuel

First Mexican Host

The wind gradually subsided after a couple of days. The landscape was now grassland, spotted with cactus trees, and hills began to appear. As I am riding on the shoulder a car pulls up ahead of me and out comes a lady and waves at me. It turns out that she lives in Texas and is a fellow cyclist. She invites me at the gas station she owns in the next city. I arrive there the next morning after having spent a night out in the wilderness - I had to chase an animal away that was scratching my bags at night and wouldn´t let me sleep. She is extremely kind and gives me a lot of food for the road after buying me breakfast. There I also meet an American traveler by the name of Gypsy Jim is on his way to Cancun in his motorhome.

Meeting friendly people on the road

Wonderful Experiences Everywhere

Mexican people are extremely nice all over. I feel at home even though at the beginning I felt quite reserved having been influenced by people´s words. They honk all time and greet me, many of them come and talk to me. One night I stopped at a wheat factory and the guard let me sleep inside. Yesterday I slept at an abandoned house as well with yet another gentleman, who happened to be spending his nights there and taking care of the yard in the morning.

December 8, 2005 - Poza Rica

A Day Full of Problems

Today I woke up and realized I had a flat tire. No worries... I fixed it and was soon on my way. At some point, several kms outside of Poza Rica my bike slipped and my front wheel hit the pavement. It got bent pretty badly. I also sustained a few minor scratches as I tried to balance and stop the bike. Since today was a hotel day I got a room and tried to repair my wheel. Even though it has improved it is still quite bent. However, I can still ride the bike as it is hoping that I won´t have any serious trouble down the road. I am now in the Tropic of Cancer. There are several hills, which makes the daily ride more interesting and much more difficult. It´s a jungle out there with banana trees and lush vegetation all around.

Crossing the Cordillera to get to the Pacific side

December 11, 2005 - Oaxaca

The road that felt endless

My experiences with Mexicans improve day by day. Everybody is really nice with me. I have been sleeping outside, in restaurants, in chapels in the mountains. The people always greet me with interest and let me sleep at their properties. The past few days the ride has been hard as hell. I got a good taste of how the Andes will be like further south. In two days I have ascended more than 5 kms. Today I met two fellow cyclists, who bought me lunch and showed me around Oaxaca. It´s a wonderful colonial city in southern Mexico.

Above the clouds

I have decided to stay an additional day in Oaxaca to rest and do some laundry in preparation for my long trip through Central America. In the morning I walked through the streets of the historic part of Oaxaca admiring the beautiful architecture of the churches and the dainty shops. I took a haircut once more and accidentally ran into the only Greek person in Oaxaca. The gentleman is from northern Greece. We will have lunch at his home, and tomorrow I have an interview with the local media. Today is the celebration of Virgen de Guadalupe, a major religious figure in Mexico. I have had numerous encounters with runners being followed by organized crews in honor of the Virgin. Seeing them up in the mountains in the middle of nowhere was beyond belief. I guess they must have thought the same about me... For the last couple of days there have been series of fireworks all around town. It´s a major fiesta down here. Oaxaca is a must see in Mexico!!! I have not yet visited an archaeological site, although I have seen awesome pictures of them. I am sure I will have the opportunity to do so down the road.

Cyclists from Oaxaca

December 16, 2005 - Tapachula

Mexico has been amazing!

In short, after an interview with the local television station in Oaxaca I started my trip to the border with Guatemala. My experiences with Mexican people have all been awesome. I visited the parents of the cyclist I met on my way to Oaxaca and stayed over at their house. The following night I stayed at a center for civil protection (or something like that). It is run by the local police, who approached me at a bus stop where I was going to spend the night and offered to take me to that location. They were very kind and attentive. There I met two guys, one Mexican and the other Dominican, who were also cycling around visiting schools and putting up muppet shows discussing how to conserve water. Really cool guys! I have finally reached the end of my trip through Mexico. I hope that my experience further on will be as good as it has been so far. Viva Mexico!

Cacti all around

MEXICO 2171 KM 14 DAYS

Virginia to Texas

2005-11-16T14:42:00.003+02:00

November 12, 2005 - Bristol, Tennessee

Family time outside the Greek community

The most unexpected occurence since my departure from my family's house in Mt. Vernon, VA - which marks the beginning of the latter part of my trip, after a revitalizing break from cycling - has been an encounter with an American gentleman, Mr. John Shumate. Sunset almost there, I had stopped around some bushes to quickly go to the bathroom (nature). As I was coming back to my bike he pulled over in his car and asked me about my trip. After a short chat he ended up inviting me over to his house. He was a very interesting person and had done some extensive traveling as well (hitch-hiking to South America at 18 years of age!). He also introduced me to another family, that of Mr. Andrew Kassoff, in Blacksburg, VA, where I stayed two days later. Mr. Kassoff had been into mountaineering and rock climbing a few years back, and we had a lot in common.

Tennessee and Alabama have constituted pretty easy riding, mostly through farmland as oppossed to some serious hills in southwestern Virginia. As I am heading south I notice more dilapidated buildings, abandoned cars on the side of the road, a general impression that property is not being taken care of.

Kassoff Family

John Shumate

November 16, 2005 - Bessemer, Alabama

Unbelievable Storm

A couple of nights ago I slept under a large overhang at a local church. I had heard of an impending storm, but I had no clue what it was going to be like. I have never experienced such a thing in my life. I am thankful I was not out there riding during those dreadful 3 or 4 hours that it lasted. It started around 10 pm and went well into the early hours of the next day. The wind was so strong. I could see the twirling of the water in the air and hear the clashing of the rain on the building's roof. The following morning I heard that there had been multiple confirmed tornadoes, two of which in the state of Alabama - where I was - with two fatalities. I am really glad I was nowhere close to those ones. Now I can understand a little better the power of nature and its destructive force.

High on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Record Lows once again

This morning I was yet under another church overhang. The temperature at 6:15 am was -6 C (21 Fahrenheit). I got up pretty quickly and cycled like crazy to get to the next gas station and warm up. I have almost reached New Orleans, and it's still awfully cold down here. When is it going to end. If one takes into account the wind chill factor during cycling the temperature felt approaches -20 C, which is really cold! There is a part of my leg - around the ankle - which is completely uncovered and at the mercy of the freezing wind. Oh well, that's part of the trip...

November 22, 2005 - Houston, Texas

Speeding in Vain!

The last few days I have been cycling like crazy trying to get to Houston in time before Thanksgiving hoping to find additional light bulbs for my headlight. Riding through Louisiana and Texas has been quite monotonous due to the flatness of the area and the lack of trees. Last night I stayed at a motel owned by Indians. They were really nice and didn't want to charge me for the room when they found out I was a traveler. I ended up paying a small amount for the overnight.

I am now at the Consulate of Greece in Houston, but I am unable to find those light bulbs. I guess I am going to have to hope that the one I currently have will last a while. That's also part of the trip... In a few days I will be at the Mexican border.

Light once again!!!

Life is amazing... So, towards the end of the day I feel a bit disappointed because I have not found the light bulb that I needed. I am about to quit trying and get ready to leave Houston. One of the ladies at the consulate - who were really helping me out - brings in a printout from a company in Colorado. They apparently had the bulbs I was looking for. At the same time, I meet a Greek lady, who is a professor at the Univ. of Houston. Since it's getting late in the day she invites me to spend the night at her house. Things seem to be lightening up for me. I end up ordering the bulbs and arrange for them to be sent to Brownsville, TX, where I will pick them up from a Holiday Inn in three days. I spend the evening with Ms. Valentini and David having a huge buffet dinner at a great Chinese restaurant and meet numerous people - Greek and non-Greek - who greet me with great enthusiasm. I am having a great evening after all!

I have decided to stay a few extra days in Houston and spend Thanksgiving among the wonderful company of Ms. Valentini and David. I will be relaxing away from my bicycle, eating great food once more, and getting ready for my long trip ahead. I am currently at the Language Lab at the Univ. of Houston, where Ms. Valentini is head of the French Department. I just had lunch with several other Greek professors at U of Houston. A great recharging period!

I guess I am having a really hard time departing from the warm feeling of family life. I have been having a wonderful time with Ms. Valentini and David here in Houston. Yesterday (Thanksgiving) we were invited at two homes where I met Greek people and also a lot of young people from Central and South America. I am now even more excited about visiting those countries because I really like the cheerfulness and openness that characterize those cultures. Today, David took me and a couple that had been visiting from India around and we ended up at the Museum of Natural History, which hosts one of the most remarkable mineral and gems exhibit in the world. I think I will be staying here an extra day to avoid upcoming bad weather, which will give me the opportunity to have a meeting with some other people as well. Interestingly and unexpectedly, I might be able to have some success in fundraising for PRAKSIS in Houston.

Greek friends in Houston

November 27, 2005 - Houston, Texas

Fundraising Success...

I have spent several days in Houston meeting various people and raising awareness around my world trip as well as the charity work I am involved in. Yesterday, there was an announcement made twice after the liturgies at the Greek church and I was invited to meet the parishioners and describe what I have been doing. A lot of them showed genuine interest in my effort and I even got some contributions on the spot. I have also met people who have offered to help me with my trip through Central and South America by providing me with contacts in various countries (Panama, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina, Brazil), who might even host me while I am there. My stay in Houston has been unexpectedly rich and rewarding. To even think that I was going to bypass the city... I am glad I had a minor bicycle concern and ended up passing through.

Greek community in Houston, Texas

December 2, 2005 - Brownsville, Texas

Final leg in the US

After three days of long riding I have finally reached the border. I spent the last couple of nights at rest areas, which were wonderful. The landscape has been quite flat and boring. I am afraid that Mexico will be similar, at least for several hundred kilometers. I am anxiously waiting to hit the mountains, even though I know it's going to be quite hard. I have also obtained the spare light bulbs. My only concern about my bike now is the cone of my front hub - which is pretty worn out - I have ordered it from Greece, and it will be sent to the consulate in Panama. I hope that the bike will take me there (a month away, almost 5000 kms down the road)! Mexico, here I come (espagnol, mexican food!!!)

States crossed: Virginia - Tennessee - Georgia - Alabama - Mississippi - Louisiana - Texas

Total kms in USA 4661 47 Days (17 resting days, 30 cycling)

Maine to Washington, D.C.

2005-11-06T14:41:00.001+02:00

October 19, 2005 - Portland, Maine

At the border between Canada and the USA the officer was dumbfounded with my description of what I was doing. She required me to write down every place I had visited on this trip. It was almost as if she didn't believe me. After an hour or so I was on my way down south. Maine was quite challenging as it has quite a few hills, some pretty steep!

Maine

October 23, 2005 - Boston, MA

A day or so later I had reached the Atlantic Ocean and was on my way south to Boston. Being almost the middle of the fall the various colors of the leaves on trees created a nice atmosphere. By this time, I was looking forward to seeing my friends again. First, I saw Mark Jaklovsky - a friend from college - and his family and stayed with them for a couple of days. While we were in Boston I also got together with Menios, an ex-classmate from Anatolia and his wife. Spending time with good friends and taking a break from continuous cycling served as a recharging and rejuvenating period.

Mark, his parents and Rob

Menios and Youli from Greece

October 24, 2005 - New York, NY

A hurricane was supposed to be passing close to the east coast of the US, and the weather forecast was not so good. Traveling was not advised. I reached Newport, RI after a long day of riding from Boston. Across the bridge I found a Greek restaurant owned and run by Mr. Fotopoulos and his family. He helped me out by taking me to Providence, where I got onto a bus to NYC, thereby avoiding the severe weather for the time being. That night I slept at Penn Station.

My next stop was in New York City, where I got together with my girlfriend - a long story that most of my friends know about - I had a wonderful time for several days, and saying goodbye was not easy. I am now looking forward to our reuniting next June.

In New York I spent time at the home of the Mihalios family, with whom my family has been quite close. I also met some friends that I hadn't seen in years (Kosta Michailides from Anatolia College, Yannis Kanavatsas, who encouraged me to pursue cycling, and Manios Diamantis, a good friend in Astoria). Moreover, I had the opportunity to make bike repairs as a preparation for my long trip through Central and South America. Gus Karpathakis, the owner of Bike Stop in Astoria, NY, to whom I am most grateful, did not accept a single penny for all the new parts he put on my bike.

NYC Skyline

Gus at Bike Stop

November 5, 2005 - Bethesda, MD

After yet another easy-going week I cycled further south to the D.C. area. South of Philadelphia I met a family from Patra in their local diner, and they put me up in their home. The next evening I was at the outskirts of Washington. Rob Liebreich, a good friend from Georgetown had invited to stay at his house and attend his son's baptism (welcoming to this world). After a wonderful ceremony I set out towards Bethesda, MD, where I would meet yet another bunch of friends, the Patmios' family. I spent the night at their house after a great dinner.

In the morning I said goodbye and cycled down to Washington, D.C. I passed by Georgetown University and was reminded of pleasant moments of the past. I also went downtown to take some photographs at the monuments and then cycled over to Virginia, where I met David Tapia, another buddy from Georgetown University.

Rob, Jen and Joseph on the bike

Georgetown University

November 6, 2005 - Mt. Vernon, VA

I ended up at my mom's cousin's house in Mt. Vernon, VA. This has been my base for the past few days while I have been trying to get this blog up and going. I have become a bit lazy in my comfort and have put off my departure. I have been a good time with Evi, George, and Evan and I will have a difficult time leaving tomorrow morning, Nov. 9

The Chitwood Family

From now on I will be continuously cycling for months in a row without taking any long breaks. I am heading south towards Central and South America. I plan to be finished with this continent by at least next March.

States crossed: Maine - New Hampshire - Massachusetts - Rhode Island - Connecticut - New York - New Jersey - Pennsylvania - Maryland

I have so far covered 21944 kms in total.

Canada, a brief introduction to the American continent

2005-10-17T14:40:00.001+03:00

October 8 - 17 2005

A long flight over the Pacific Ocean brought me over to the Americas. I landed in Vancouver after a stop-over in Los Angeles. I called up relatives whom I had never met, and they invited me over to stay with them. I had a relaxing time in Vancouver. Even though I was planning on spending several days cycling around British Columbia the rainy weather served as an excuse not to do so. I only took a day trip in the rain along the coast and up towards the inland. I didn't really enjoy it since I couldn't see much of the beautiful scenery around.

Sleeping quarters

I soon flew to Montreal, where my trip across the Americas would begin. I stayed in Montreal for several days, at the home of Mr. Dinos Trakakis, while receiving media exposure. I have been trying to coordinate my fundraising efforts with local authorities where there are large Greek communities (Australia, Canada, USA).

Montreal

With students in Montreal

From Montreal I followed the river through Trois Rivieres to lovely Quebec City and then south to the border of Canada and Maine, USA. On the way I met Takuya, a Japanese guy on his trip from Alaska to Nova Scotia, and we rode together to Quebec City. A fascinating city indeed. A taste of France in Canada.

With Takuya in Quebec City

Route Taken: Squamish (in Vancouver area) - Montreal - Trois Rivieres - Quebec City - Ville St. Georges

680 kms in 10 days Total 20293

New Zealand, Nature at its highest glory!

2005-10-08T14:40:00.002+03:00

September 20 - October 8 2005

I landed in Christchurch on the south island of New Zealand. By the time I had gathered all my things and set up my bicycle the sun was about to set. I quickly rode downtown hoping to find a place to spend the night. I located a Greek restaurant and met Mrs. Marika, her niece Lisa, and her family. I stayed at their home overnight and had the opportunity to taste her savory home-style cooking.

Hosted in Christchurch

The following day I began my trip towards the south. The temperature in New Zealand was still quite low. In fact, it had just snowed a couple of days before, snow that had already melted. For most days during the following two weeks my feet remained numb, despite energetic pedalling, for until at least 10 am. Morning temperatures were near freezing point (1 or 2 degrees Celsius). During the day the temperature would rise to about 10 degrees.

Cold morning

Cloudy black and white day

New Zealand is one of the "greenest" countries, both literally and figuratively, I have ever visited. It relies heavily on agriculture - there are many farms with sheep, cows, deer, even alpacas. The landscape is fantastic! Hilly for the most part, the south island has some of the most spectacular scenery on this planet. The Southern Alps, the Millford Sound, the coastal areas, the multitudes of rivers and lakes reflecting the surrounding mountain ranges are the elements that make up marvelous images that most of us have seen in Lord of the Rings.

Lake reflection during a clear day

Coastal views

Cycling across New Zealand has been the most enjoyable cycling experience so far. I was no longer concerned with covering long distances and took time to absorb the surroundings. For the most part, the weather was favorable. The west coast of the south island is infamous for its heavy rains. As expected I encountered some serious downpour while riding through. I accepted an offer by Eric, a Swiss guy I met on the way, to take shelter in his campervan and later at a motel during one of the wettest and coldest days I have ever experienced.

Eric and his hospitable van

West Coast Scenery

I slept outdoors most of the nights, under some overhang to keep from getting wet. In Wellington, I visited the Embassy, and a wonderful gentleman who was an employee there offered to pay for a room at a nearby motel. I wish that most people would treat strangers with such warmth.

My trip through the north island was much shorter since it rained for most of the time I was there. I cycled through volcanic regions without being able to view the volcanos due to heavy fog and constant rain. In Rotorua, one of the most touristy towns, I happened to go into a Returned Servicemen Association when a sign bearing "Crete Corner" caught my eye. I ended up meeting a couple of Maoris who filled me up on the history behind WWII. I learned that New Zealander had taken part in the revolution of Crete against the German occupation.

Maori friends

New Zealand is certainly one of the places that I plan on visiting again.

Route Taken: Christchurch - Dunedin - Alexandra - Queenstown - Glaciers - Greymouth - Westport - Nelson - Picton (south island) - Wellington - National Park - Taupo - Rotorua - Hamilton - Auckland (north)

2368 kms in 19 days Total 19613

Australia, the long, long, very long way...

2005-09-20T14:39:00.001+03:00

August 7 - September 20 2005

An unpleasant surprise awaited me when I landed in Australia. Even though I had sent my luggage by cargo a day ahead of time, it was still in Singapore. Fortunately, I had checked my bicycle as regular luggage, so I could go around while I waited for my things to arrive. I was desperately looking for cheap accommodation in Darwin when I ran across a Greek church. Coincidentally, I ran into the Skyllas family, who without any reservations invited me over to stay at their house. This was my initial contact with a large Greek community outside of Greece. An article about my endeavor was published in the local paper, and I gave a radio interview as well.

I had to go through a detailed bureaucratic procedure with Quarantine Authorities in Australia in order to get my luggage released.

Skyllas family in Darwin

I had no idea what was to follow during my course through the outback all the way to the east coast of Australia, 3000 kms away. Australia is a vast country with approximately 23 million inhabitants. These are concentrated primarily along the east coast and some on the west coast as well. The center of Australia is just empty, not just of people but of vegetation as well. Australia is the driest country on earth.

The road network outside of major cities such as Sydney, Melbourne, etc. is basic at best. The absence of a shoulder and the narrow single lanes for each direction characterize most of the so-called Australian highways. Road trains, huge trucks with 3 or 4 linked trailers are a common on most outback highways. When they pass you, you pray that the driver will not make any mistake, which could be fatal due to their huge mass and the immense suction they create.

Bush in the outback

Another obstacle that a cyclist has to deal with on a daily basis while crossing the outback is the shortage of food and water. There are virtually no towns for hundreds of miles except for roadhouses, which are usually 80-100 kms apart. I found out pretty soon that the dots with the fancy names on my map indicated these roadhouses and not little towns as I had imagined. Thankfully, roadhouses offer basic commodities such as bread and water as well as other kinds of food as well.

I found Australia quite expensive, so I resolved to eating bread and jam with occassional exceptions - burgers and hot pies. I stayed at rest areas, which were often equipped with toilettes. These rest areas saved as caravan parks in the wilderness. I met a lot of travelers this way. It seems that Australians travel extensively within their own country. Renting camper vans and all sorts of mobile homes is a trend. They were most kind to me and offered me assistance when I needed it such as water when I was running low.

Inspiring colors in the outback

Picturesque East Coast

Great Dividing Range

I will never forget the head winds that I had to deal with on a daily basis. Apparently, winds have a certain pattern according to the location on the continent and the season. I soon found out that I would be riding into the wind all the way down to Melbourne. This led me to do a bit of night riding, when the winds had less force, to make some progress forward.

When I reached the east coast it felt as if I had just returned to civilization. Distances between towns were now smaller, but the riding remained difficult due to the even stronger head winds. I met some Greek people up in Queensland, who were most hospitable. Further south, in New South Wales, the scenery gradually changed. Vegetation was more lush and green was the most prevalent color around. Lots of rivers and all sorts of water formations ran through forests, and hills - some pretty steep ones - made their appearance.

Pastures in Victoria

I stayed with family in Sydney as well as Melbourne. In Australia I made an attempt to gain publicity for the sake of fundraising. In Sydney I purchased a ticket around the world, something that I should have done before had I been certain of my itinerary. New South Wales and Victoria are my favorite districts in Australia. The strong head winds that I faced almost every day hindered me from enjoying the landscape in Australia. Wherever I ran across Greek people they treated me with tremendous pride and warmth. I am really grateful to them as well as every other person who came across my way.

The Opera House in Sydney

Family in Melbourne

Route Taken: Darwin - Tennant Creek - Townsville - Brisbane - Sydney - Melbourne

5850 kms in 44 days Total kms 17245

Singapore, the Asian Jewel

2005-08-06T14:38:00.001+03:00

August 5 - 6 2005

Singapore is a tiny island at the end of the Malaysian peninsula. It is a melting pot that brings together Asian and Western cultures. Highly developed and densely populated it is considered the region's "jewel."

I rode around to explore the island and run some errands at the same time. I purchased my ticket to Darwin, Australia and then rode to the airport to send some of my stuff to Australia by cargo. I spent the night and much of the next morning prior to my flight at a youth hostel. I met a lot of young people from all over the world and had the chance to share experiences with some.

128 kms in one and a half days Total kms 11395

Malaysia, a mixture of Chinese, Indian, and Western culture

2005-08-04T14:38:00.002+03:00

July 30 - August 4 2005

Western Malaysia - the Eastern part is on the island of Borneo - is a small country. Malaysia made a lasting impression on me, even though it took me only 5 days to cross it.

The vegetation was quite lush. Yet there were innumerable palm trees on either side of the highway forming forests. One day as I was riding along the shoulder on the main highway - bicycles were not allowed on it, but the police let me ride on it provided that I stay on the shoulder - I saw ahead of me what looked like a crocodile. I was quite startled, but the beast turned around and went off the edge of the highway when it realized I was approaching. I tried to take a good look at it: it was a huge lizard, as long and as thick as a human being. You don't want to be crashing into it for sure :-)

In Malaysia the prevalent religion is Islam. Mosques are not as common as in other Muslim countries, but the ones that exist are spectacular. It is a country where the Chinese, the Indians, and the Anglo-Saxons live in harmony. Several languages are spoken, including English, which enhanced my experience and contact with people. The road network and the rest areas in Malaysia were outlandishly convenient. Every rest area on the highway was equipped with free shower facilities. I loved it. Furthermore, I had the opportunity to enjoy some Indian food away from Pakistan and India. The people were really nice and expressed a strong interest in what I was doing.

Kuala Lumpur is a growing metropolitan city. Highrises occupy the downtown area with the most fascinating being the Petronas Towers.

Several kms from the southern border between Malaysia and Singapore I was approached by Benjamin, a citizen of Malaysia who worked in Singapore. After a brief conversation he invited me to his house. Later that night, he and his wonderful family introduced me to Chinese hospitality!

Ben and family

Route Taken: Alor Setar - Butterworth - Taiping - Ipoh - Kuala Lumpur - Melaka - Johor Bahru

860 kms in 5 and a half days Total kms 11267

Thailand, a feeling of the West in the East

2005-07-30T14:37:00.001+03:00

July 23 - 30 2005

I went through Thailand in a breeze. I felt an urge to move south as quickly as I could. I managed to reach Bangkok, 270 kms west of the border with Cambodia within a single day (more than 15 hours of cycling). I had a lot of rain in Thailand, but for the first time I was really enjoying it. I would get drenched by the heavy downpour and would be dry again half an hour later. I didn't even put any rain gear on, just let myself feel the drops touch my skin.

Busy road in Bangkok

A brief stop at the Embassy of Greece in Bangkok, and I am off to the south on my way to Malaysia. I made frequent stops at gas stations, where I met lots of people - staff and customers - Prices had generally risen in comparison to Vietnam and Cambodia, so staying overnight at hotels was a rare occurrence. Gas stations had lots of amenities (toilettes, some showers, supermarkets) and proved to be a great spot to spend the night.

Temple complex south of Bangkok

Gas station pit stop

One day, as I was cycling down south, I thought I saw a flag of Iran on the other side of the road. I turned my head in that direction and saw a person in a wheelchair pushing forward along the shoulder of the road. I immediately changed course and caught up with him to make his acquaintance. It was Mr. Kiumars, and he was doing a world tour in his wheelchair. I was dumbfounded by the courage and personal resolve that this man had. I thought that what I was doing was hard!!!

With Mr. Kiumars

Route Taken: Aranyaprathet - Bangkok - Phet Buri - Chumphon - Surat Thani - Hat Yai - Sadao

Within 8 days I had crossed a large part of Thailand covering 1362 kms. It was for the first time in Thailand that my speedometer went from 9999 kms back to 0. Total Kms 10407

Cambodia with a thousand "hellos"

2005-07-22T14:37:00.001+03:00

July 18 - 22 2005

A brief passage through the small country of Cambodia added to my experience of the cultural character of SE Asian people. Unlike Vietnam, Cambodia was less developed - probably the least developed country in the region - Houses were further apart, situated on larger pieces of farmland. They were built on stilts to prevent the disastrous floods from ruining their simply arranged abode. This year, however, had been quite a dry one, and their rice crops were minimal.

Houses on stilts

Riding through residential areas I could hear "hellos" coming from children's voices in houses all around. There were so many of them that my head would be constantly turning from one side to the other trying to reciprocate their greetings. Some of the children even came running out of their homes waving at me. It's impossible to accept every invitation by people when you are on the road or you just don't go anywhere. I did find a few people who spoke some English and could thus have a deeper conversation with them.

The roads in Cambodia were terrible. Cracks and holes all over the paved part of the road made riding very difficult and at times slowed me down. Pnom Penh was a vivid exception. A cosmopolitan oasis amidst rural farmlands. While there, I stayed at a guest house and ate pizza for a change.

Pnom Penh

The following day I headed towards Seam Reap, the home town of Angkor Wat, one of the most prominent Buddhist temple complex. I rode all the way to its edge but could not take a photo because entry was only permitted to ticket holders. I decided not to pay 20 dollars for the ticket but instead purchase a book that included photos as well as historic information on it.

Temple in peaceful surroundings

The last section of the route towards the border with Thailand was the hardest in terms of riding. 100 kms of awful dirt road followed by 50 kms of poor quality sealed road. I opted to use alternative transportation for the first leg to prevent further strain on my bicycle, whose rear wheel was already missing a spoke. A pick-up truck jam-packed with furniture, luggage and people was a curious sight for a foreigner. The trip took several exhausting hours. We had a couple of instances where things fell off the car in addition to a tyre blowout. By the time we disembarked we were all covered in red dust and quite dizzy from driving on highly uneven road surface. Zig zagging for 50 kms on my bicycle concluded the roller-coaster ride for the day and got me to the Thailand border.

Route Taken: Phnum Penh - Kampong Thum - Siem Reap - Poipet

540 kms in 4 and a half days Total 9045

Vietnam, an introduction to SE Asia

2005-07-18T14:36:00.001+03:00

July 3 - 18 2005

I had to send my bicycle by cargo due to the high charges I had to pay for excess weight. As a result, I had to wait an extra day in Hanoi, Vietnam for the bike to arrive. This gave me an opportunity to explore the city on foot. My impression of northern Vietnam was neutral at best. Communication with people was seriously impeded by my inability to learn the language - the variety in intonation makes understanding very difficult. They, on the other hand, do not speak any foreign languages let alone few exceptions. I also got the impression that tourists were looked upon as merely a source of money through a relatively narrow commercial point of view.

View of Hanoi

The Red River

Halong Bay is one of the largest tourist attractions in the north. Beautiful giant rocks covered in lush vegetation make their appearance out of the water of the South China Sea. A must-see for those who enjoy natural wonders.

Ha-long Bay

The route to the south offered a glimpse into agricultural life in Vietnam. Men, women, and children working in rice fields. The Vietnamese still use the bicycle to move around, even between towns. I have never seen so many bicycles on the road!

Rice, and rice noodles (Pho) comprised a large chunk of my daily food intake.

Rice fields

Vietnam remains one of the cheapest countries in Asia despite its dramatic development since the 90s. I could find luxurious rooms for 7-10 USD, so I stayed in hotel rooms most of the time in Vietnam.

In Vietnam I had a couple of instances of harassment by males with a macho attitude that reflected a deep feeling of insecurity. Nothing I couldn't handle... It might just be my impression, but the people in the southern part of Vietnam were much more friendly and open to tourists. Outside of Ho Chi Minh City I met Huy, a student involved in web designing, who showed me around town. He had been captivated by my T-shirt that bears WORLD PEACE, a message that has attracted a lot of attention.

In Vietnam I did a lot of night riding as well to escape the high temperatures during the day. I would end up at hotels around 4 or 5 in the morning and sleep through the morning continuing my trip the next afternoon.

My limited contact with people due to language barriers was still interesting. I would stop at restaurants to eat meals, and one of the most frequent questions I got was whether I was married. There were mostly women running those establishments, and we would joke about getting married :-)

Spending time with locals at restaurants

Rob, a friend from college, did a Google search with my name which lead to this Article in Vietnam that Huy, a student at Ho Chi Minh Polytechnic University, wrote and published online.

Route Taken: Hanoi - Hai Phong - Vinh - Hue - Da-nang - Nha-trang - Phan-rang - Ho Chi Minh City

2100 kms in 16 and a half days - including 3 rest days Total 8505 kms

India, a short trip through a large country

2005-07-03T14:35:00.001+03:00

June 23- July 3 2005

Lahore: After two days of staying in bed and trying to gain back my strength - I had weighed myself (120 pounds) - I could no longer afford to stay at a hotel. I felt much better and decided to move on. The border with India was only 35 kms away. Outside temperature was still above 45 degrees, and the wind felt awfully hot. I had to make a few stops and go into shops that had air-conditioning. I was slowly but painstakingly approaching the border. Once I was there I had a lot of water from a fountain that the customs officers pointed out to me. I immediately felt a hundred percent better. It was almost as if I was psychologically closing a dreadful chapter of my life. It was a Saturday, and I was the only person crossing the border from Pakistan into India that day according to the official border logbook.

Amritsar was the first city in India that I passed through. I visited the remarkable Golden Temple and then headed south towards New Delhi. I had to take a couple of rest days at local hotels to fortify my health because I occasionally felt weakness due to the shock I had experienced just a few days ago.

Golden temple at Amritsar

About 100 kms north of New Delhi I had heavy rains. At the same time the rim of my rear wheel, which had previously sustained damage in Pakistan, began to crack at several points. Soon enough, one of the spokes broke, then another. My wheel was no longer aligned and brushed against the brake shoes impeding the bike's movement. I had to take the rear brakes off in order to continue since there was no way to fix this problem without going into a bike shop. Luckily, I was able to reach the Greek Embassy in N. Delhi just as the bike failed on me. The rear wheel needed to be replaced!

India Gate in New Delhi. Carrying my destroyed wheel

The officials at the Embassy were most helpful. They gave me a diplomatic car and a driver to take me around in my attempt to locate a bike shop that would have accessories suitable for my bike. Tough luck! I had to order a new wheel from Greece! I, thus, had to spend several days in N. Delhi waiting for its arrival. At the same time, I learned that I was unable to proceed with the initial route I had mapped out due to security problems near the Indian border with Myanmar.

Rearranging my itinerary and obtaining entry visas for Vietnam and Cambodia were made possible through the help of a business colleague and friend who lives in N. Delhi. He entertained me and took me around during my stay in India's capital. I am really grateful to the assistance that both the embassy personnel and my friend offered me. I would have had a really rough time had it not been for them.

Route Taken: Amritsar to Delhi

550 kms in 10 days - including repair days Total kms 6405

Pakistan, the Ups and the Downs

2005-06-23T14:35:00.004+03:00

June 13-23 2005

After having crossed a big chunk of desert through southern Iran it was time to get a really good feeling of the desert in Pakistan.

Desert wildlife

Road covered by sand

Crossing the border between Iran and Pakistan was quite an interesting experience. It was my first contact with the absolute absence of technology - common at European and most Western countries' border stations. I had to wait in line for a while till I got to the officer in charge who filled out a large log book with my information. They had probably never seen a Greek passport - it was a land crossing that few foreigners use - and it took them a while to figure out where the name and the rest of my information was. My presence there alongside my bicycle made a strong impression on those waiting in line. Some people spoke English, so I had several conversations with some mostly about what I was doing and where I was coming from. When all the paperwork was filled out I left the border station. From now on, I had to get used to riding on the opposite side of the road. It was an exciting shift for me! My brain had to get accustomed to a whole different way of perceiving direction on the road.

I soon discovered that the little dots with names on my map were not towns or even villages but check posts. That meant that there were no stores to buy food or water. It turns out that the Western part of Pakistan, the notorious for drug processing and transport region of Balochistan, is an underdeveloped area devoid of basic infrastructure such as power lines or water pipes. The region is sparsely populated with only one road connecting the border with Iran to the capital of the area, Quetta.

In order to survive I had to rely on the local sources for water - mainly huge clay containers that held water transported by trains once every week - and food. Thankfully, there were small edifices made out of mud and stone every now and then that served as railway stations, where I could get water, be served with their wonderful milk tea, and occasionally eat some food. The quality of the roads had suddenly deteriorated after the smooth highways of Iran.

Colorful local attire and extensively adorned cargo trucks

In Turkey I was able to adequately communicate with people by learning some Turkish, which later helped me learn some Farsi to get by in Iran. In Pakistan, however, I didn't have much time to pick up the languages spoken as dialects varied from one region to the next. Gestures - the universal language - had to take over. Most of the Pakistanis are Muslim and thus are inclined to extend their hospitality to foreigners. Prior to reaching Quetta, I spent a couple of nights at Levi Posts - the civilian police force since there is no government police force in Western Pakistan.

After having spent a night in Quetta I was strongly urged to visit a scenic region 150 kms away from the city. I ended up regretting this because a major part of the route there was under construction. My bicycle sustained a bit of damage due to the heavy weight of the luggage and I had to return to the city to do the necessary repairs. I was invited over to the house of a very nice young man for lunch, who worked in Dubai and was just visiting his mother in Quetta. Enjoying the warm family atmosphere soothed my previous aggravation. The bicycle is an integral part of this trip. It is the only tool you can use toward the success of your goals. Any damage to it seriously impedes your progress.

Bought and wore local-style clothes

The next day I was on my way south towards Sukkur. I started losing altitude heading towards the valley of river Indus. The temperature kept rising during the day approaching 50 degrees Celsius. I was informed by some people that a terrible heat wave was imminent. I decided to take the train from Sukkur to Lahore to avoid some of the endless kms amidst desert and the scorching sun. Little did I know that it would be a trip to hell. I took the bicycle on the train with me. There was virtually no space available for any movement. The train was jammed with people and the heat was unbearable. The train ride lasted 14 hours for a distance that should have been covered in less than 6 hours. I had to sleep on the floor of the wagon next to my bike and lost a big deal of body fluids. When the train pulled into Lahore I felt so exhausted, almost like fainting. I managed to get myself on the bike and look for a hotel. I ended up at a nice hotel, where I was certain to receive proper medical attention. I spent two days recuperating with the help of an IV (glucose solution) that the doctor administered.

While recovering from an exhausting illness I encountered a

very pleasant family in the center of Lahore

Pakistan has been a mixture of substantial contact with locals and a serious threat to my health. I lived through it to tell the story!!!

Route Taken: Dalbandin - Quetta - Sukkur - Multan - Lahore

1092 kms in 10 days Total kms 5855

Iran, Amazing Hospitality!

2005-06-13T14:33:00.008+03:00

May 27-June 13 2005

I could have never imagined a warmer attitude towards a stranger than what I experienced in Iran. Aside from the extended history that goes centuries back, modern Iran has a lot to boast about. Unlike what most people think (primarily due to distortion by the media or plain ignorance) Iran is a peaceful country with significant infrastructure. It has one of the best road network I have so far seen, better than many Western countries.

On the road to the border with Pakistan

I hadn't encountered such a traffic sign before

The north part of Iran has a lot of influence from the neighboring Turkish speaking countries. I could, thus, communicate pretty well since I had learnt some basic Turkish during the past couple of weeks. Soon after entering the country I was about to be dumbfounded by the warmth and caring that people showed as I was passing through their country.

Hosted by a simple family of farmers

Spending time with an English speaking family in Zanjan

Iran was the only country that I have passed through that expressed an interest into what I was doing. They invited me to give an interview to a newspaper and a local television network asked me to speak about my trip (I did the interview in German since there was someone there who had spent time in Germany and spoke the language).

Almost every day I would meet people, and they would invite me to their homes to eat and spend the night. This way, I got a glimpse into their daily routine and their customs. What struck me as most different was the woman's role in the life of the family. I found that women had distinct roles in the house - being primarily housewives while some helped out in the fields as well - In larger cities, some women had transcended tradition and held jobs that women in the Western world do. Still though, equality between the sexes is unknown in this part of the world. Things are gradually changing as the country can no longer keep itself isolated from the rest of the world dwelling in fundamentalism. It's just a matter of time.

Women covering most of their body - required by tradition

Wonders of islamic architectur

This trip around the world is not as much about enjoying nature as it is about meeting people who are different than you are. My primary motivation to embark on such a long and difficult trip has been my hunger to meet people from different backgrounds and live among them as much as I can. Iran has been the only country so far that was so gratifying in this respect. Here I have had the most contact with people and found them to be amazingly hospitable. Even though they didn't have much to offer, they gave profusely. This country and its people have made a powerful impression on me and has changed the way I view the world.

Ali and his friends in his newly opened store

Hosted by a family in Mughar, a remote village in Iran

Accompanied by Iranian cyclists around Tehran

Tabriz - Zanjan - Tehran - Qom - Kashan - Yazd - Kerman - Zahedan

Iran: 2340 kms in 17 and a half days

Total Kms 4763

In the Beginning It Was Turkey

2005-05-26T14:32:00.010+03:00

May 8-26 2005

Turkish Hospitality

On May 8, 2005 I cross my first border, the one between Greece and Turkey. I am now a foreigner in an unknown land. Very few people speak English, and so I try my best to learn some Turkish. I mostly camp out near gas stations (to be close to water and toilettes) and occasionally I am invited at people's homes. Everywhere I go I am offered the traditional cup of tea (tschai), which warms me up and gives me extra energy. A day later I stay at the home of a Turkish family with Greek roots.

Gungor, his father, wife and son dancing

In Istanbul I face my first nightmare with the unbelievable traffic jam. Adjusting to their driving behavior is necessary to survive on the road. I have my first contact with Greek Authorities (Consulate) abroad and find them extremely pleasant and helpful. At the same time I apply for a visa to Iran since I was unable to get it in Greece. I even get a hotel room, courtesy of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchy. I couldn't have asked for a better start.

In front of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul

Kapali Carsi (Grand Bazaar) in Istanbul

Outside of Istanbul I meet another cyclist, Javier from Spain, and we tour together for several days. We split as he goes south to Ancara while I move north to ride the Black Sea region of Turkey, where most of my relatives come from. The Turkish are hospitable people, and we have a great time wherever I go.

Javier from Spain

I meet Erhan just outside of the city of Ordu, halfway between Samsun and Trabzon. After a great breakfast at his house we decide to meet up in the city where he is taking preparatory university courses. We go to his school and he introduces me to classmates and teachers. Everybody is amazingly nice to me. A bunch of us end up walking along the waterfront before I take off.

Erhan and his family

Soon I am approaching the border with Iran after having crossed several high mountain passes. In the meantime people are extremely hospitable everywhere. I am now in Anatolia, where rocky landscape and steppes are the characteristic features of the area.

Dogubeyazit

I spend a few days in Erzurum waiting anxiously to get my visa for Iran. Finally, I do so and I am in heaven! Mt. Ararat is the last wonder in Turkey before I cross the border into Iran.

Ararat in the background

Istanbul - Gerede - Samsun - Ordu - Trabzon - Erzurum

Turkey: 2050 kms in 19 days
Total kms 2423

Overview

2005-05-05T14:31:00.004+03:00

54,000 km 4 continents 40 countries in 14 months

An exploration of the world: natural wonders, immersion into cultural diversity, human contact and communication, propagation of the idea of world peace

Means: A bicycle, basic survival gear, and a strong desire to delve into the unknown

May 5-7 2005

Leaving my home

On May 5th, 2005 I get on my heavily-laden bicycle and leave my house in Thessaloniki heading for the unknown. Over 120 pounds worth of stuff plus my weight is the load that I transport every day. Two nights in Greece, a final goodbye to parents and relatives in Alexandroupoli and the real adventure begins!

My thirst for the adventure and the contact with people from various cultural backgrounds combined with a fundraising effort to benefit PRAKSIS in Greece will be the fuel that will carry me forward.

Fundraising Info

2005-05-05T14:31:00.003+03:00

One of the most important goals of this trip, aside from satisfying a personal dream, is to raise money for a wonderful not-for-profit organization in Greece called PRAKSIS.

PRAKSIS is an independent non-profit organization in Greece, which continues the implementation of the activities of Doctors Without Borders in Athens and Thessaloniki. PRAKSIS caters to the needs of immigrants, refugees, and other socially marginalized groups such as substance abusers, gypsies, victims of trafficking, victims of child labor, etc. by providing medical and other humanitarian services for free.

Website: www.praksis.gr

Email: info@praksis.gr

Donations may be sent from all over the world to :

ALPHA BANK Stournara Branch Greece

IBAN: GR46 0140 1040 1040 0200 2014 940

SWIFT CRBAGRAAXXX

PRAKSIS

... and your name

or by personal check payable to PRAKSIS

PRAKSIS, STOURNARI 57, ATHENS 10432, GREECE